HTPC update
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Without cheating, by pressing the power button and the timer button at the same time, you have the desktop (W7) completely loaded in 35 seconds.
I don't know what programs you usually use on the HTPC, I have the OS (W7 64bits), the programs and the paging file (12 GB) on a 64 GB SSD and I have about 13 GB left that I won't use for the moment.
The use is the usual one of a PC, yes, the games go on another disk.
I want to say that for the OS, the media players etc, with a small SSD you can manage, and at the price they are (cost/ mega), it's not a matter of having too much free space on one of those.
The thing you say about videos streaming going jerky, it can be a bad configuration of the browser, the player or both. It also depends if the connection is via WiFi or by ehternet.
The remote, as I already told you, make sure it's the remote and not the receiver that is giving problems.Edit: As for the processor, if you are going to stay with a 6400K, better stay with the one you have: the A6 will give you an integrated graphics and a more updated platform, but you will have higher energy consumption for a performance very (very very) similar to that Athlon.
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Well then perfect, I think I will get a simple SSD. Basically what I use is W7 64 bits, Kodi, MiPony, Chrome, 7zip… The rest of the disks will be for storage.
The connection is directly by cable to the 200MB Jazztel router. I have tried everything and I can't solve it, while on the laptop with the same configuration it runs without problems even by Wifi.
The remote control works correctly. When the PC starts up, the iMon sensor sometimes tells me that it is disconnected. What happens is that right now it is a bit poorly located to check the connections, because sometimes putting my hand with some touch of cables it has worked again.
Finally, the processor issue... How do I rescue the Athlon I currently have? I remember putting thermal paste to stick it in the assembly, but I have no idea how to rescue it to use it again on the new board. Is it complex? I also understand that Crossfire with CPU and motherboard is not worth it for me, right? Here I was not looking for both to have it, it has been a coincidence.
Edit: in the case of reusing the processor, I am realizing that it is an AM3 and the board I had thought of would not be suitable. Or do you suggest that I also reuse the board?
Thanks!
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Indeed, we are talking about different platforms, the Athlon uses AM3/AM3+ socket while the A6 are mounted on FM2.
That being said, it is also not very advisable to mount an SSD on the motherboard you have since you would not get the most out of it (it does not have SATA 6Gb/s channels).
You can, however, get a new AM3+ motherboard that is perfectly compatible with your current processor, the GA-970A-DS3P is very good and offers very capable connectivity.
Get a normal graphics card, the GV-R724OC-2GI for example.
Keep in mind that the Athlon II 245 does not have integrated graphics, so a discrete graphics card is what it needs.
The issue of dry thermal paste and the micro, use a cutter to make a slight lever and be very careful. When you have to apply force, hold the micro by the corners without touching the pins. With patience it will come out, then simply clean the remains of the paste very well with the appropriate product and you will have it ready for another batch of years. -
Thanks whoololon.
Regarding the motherboard, what I imagined. I've seen the one you're talking about and it's great: Gigabyte Radeon R7 240 2GB GDDR3 (68€)
The only thing is, the graphics card Gigabyte Radeon R7 240 2GB GDDR3 costs me 75€, which is not a big problem for me, but I see that it has a consumption of 400W. I would then need to change the power supply, right? The one I have right now is the Nox 450W.
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You can use the font you have without any problems.
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Checking the configuration, with the motherboard you recommended, I saw that it indicated to check the memory support list for DDR3 1866 or higher, and I saw that the list is quite limited, especially for 4GB modules like the ones I had chosen.
I have been checking, and I think that better than the 2133GHz that I had selected, what do you think about these?
G.Skill Ripjaws X DDR3 1600 PC3-12800 8GB 2x4GB CL7 (€59.95)
Thanks!!!
By the way, silly question, but the DDR2 I have is impossible to reuse, right?
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You can't use DDR2 memory on DDR3 motherboards. But you can always sell them and make some extra money.
Don't overthink the issue of memory and the motherboard. The list they provide, as they rightly point out, is a significant sample of all the brands and models available. I assure you they don't test all the ones on the market and there are many (practically all) that are completely compatible with that motherboard and are not reflected in those lists.
Take it as a guide, keep in mind that the last revision of that motherboard is from 2013.Edit: The Snipers I mount would also work on that motherboard, and these Ripjaws would also suit you very well (in fact, there are pages where that motherboard and these memories are offered as a combo). As I have already said, don't overthink it.
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Well, I've placed the order, and the first problems I've encountered that I hadn't thought of before. My power supply only has two SATA connections, and I've got four devices: the old HDD, the SSD, and the two DVD drives. Also, the motherboard manual recommends a 500W or higher power supply to avoid instability.
I've been looking at this Corsair, what do you think? It's a bit pricey for what I was expecting, but I think it's the best I can put in, right?
Corsair CX500M 500W Builder Series 80 Plus Bronze 72€
Second problem I've encountered, the fan I bought for the CPU is vertical and won't fit in the NOX Media case, I need a horizontal one. This is a real problem because the NOX had good airflow and was very quiet, and the only alternative I can find is the same one that stopped working: Scythe Shuriken Rev.B
Also, I'll order a 3.5'' adapter for the SSD drive because I can't see a way to secure it and I don't think it's a good idea to leave it loose, hehe.
What I can't find and would also need are the rails that come with the DVD drive to fit into the case slot. I assume they came with the case, but that was 6 years ago and I have no idea where they are. Do you know where I can find them?
Thanks!
Edit: How are the Tacens and/or Aerocool power supplies?
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The "screwless" rails of the case are best to find them, at least I have not been able to find where to get them.
The SSD is the least of your worries, you put it wherever you want as long as it does not cover a grille or is exposed to too much temperature. It comes with a double-sided adhesive pad, stick it and you're done.
The watts and the power supplies, quickly.
Currently, the 12v line is usually used as a reference to guide us in the power that it can offer us.
Knowing that W (power)=I (intensity)*V (voltage), in the example of a PSU (that Corsair) whose +12 V line offers us 38 A, we have that the line can offer us a maximum of 456 W.
The quality of a power supply goes, apart from the obvious, in that the voltages do not fluctuate too much. The thing about certifications, personally, I see it as nonsense (in so far as they focus on energy efficiency and not on tolerance ranges or reliability), but some people feel more at ease.
Look at this Aerocool or this NOX, they are decent qualities and much more affordable.
Edit: The Aerocool is the one you put. The thing about being modular or not, depends on budget and space in the case. -
Thanks whoololon,
In fact, the power supply I have is a NOX 450W and during these 6 years it has worked quite well for me. I had even thought about finally keeping the power supply and simply buying an external enclosure by USB for the mechanical drive, but I have a doubt.
I have 3 Western Digital external hard drives (two MyBook USB 3.0 and one Elements 2.0). I have already assembled the equipment with the new configuration (pending to change the fan for the mistake I made) and the three work, but only two are detected at a time. That is, I have tried connecting them individually, both in the USB 3.0 ports and in the USB 2.0, and they work without problems. I put two and it detects the two. But when I put a third one, it continues to detect only the first two. It seems that the drive wants to start because it detects the energy of the USB port, but the operating system does not detect it.
Could it be because the power supply is too small for me?
Edit: By the way, I have managed to recover the IR of the iMón ;D
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Here you have caught me.:facepalm:
If it were a power supply problem, the normal thing would be for Windows to warn you with a message that the hub's capacity has been exceeded or something similar. In any case, I would point to the motherboard, not the power supply.
I don't know the final configuration of the computer, but if you have kept the old platform, the power consumption should not have increased so much that this power supply can no longer handle it. Moreover, the MyBook (even the Essential) have external power supplies, don't they?
In any case, if you can't get it to work by messing around with the power environment and drivers, I would get a self-powered USB 3.0 hub.Good luck.
Edit: Have you considered getting a tower? Many of your problems come from the lack of space in the chassis you have.
Edit: Remember that, in your case, each device you plug into the USB will take around 700-900 mA, so the hub's power supply must provide at least 4 A (for a 4-port hub.)
If you could connect those drives internally (SATA+power), you would have no problem. -
What exactly do you mean by a motherboard problem? Yesterday I didn't have time when I got home, but I'll keep tinkering to see if I can get them to work. To be honest, it seems strange to me, and since the motherboard instructions recommended a 500W or higher power supply, that's why I thought that might be where the problem came from. Although it's true that after searching the internet, it doesn't show any problem of hub overload.
The final configuration of the equipment right now is as follows:
NOX Media HomePC + Remote Control iMon - HTPC Tower/Case
NOX Urano 450W - Power Supply
Gigabyte GA-970A-DS3P Socket AM3+
AMD Athlon II X2 245
Scythe Shuriken Rev.B - Fan/Cooler although I have to change it because it's broken and I'm thinking about this one: Noctua NH-L12 Low Profile
G.Skill Ripjaws X DDR3 1600 PC3-12800 8GB 2x4GB CL7
Kingston SSDNow V300 120GB
LG GH24NSC0 DVD Burner 24x Black
Hauppauge WinTV HVR-1100 Hybrid DVB-TI was looking at what you told me about modular power supplies, and maybe I'll stretch the budget a little with this one: Nox Hummer 750W 80+ Bronze Modular What do you think? I know I don't need 750W and 500W would be enough, but in the end, for the price, they come out the same as the AeroCool ones and the experience with NOX so far has been very good.
The thing about getting the tower you mentioned is that it's a setup dedicated in the living room and has the typical slot for video. If I get a tower, it will look like a blob, and I wonder how I'll explain that to my wife, haha.
Regards!
Edit: While searching, I found this article: Why doesn't the USB drive appear on my computer? It seems to me that the USB problem could be a conflict of names. I'll try it this afternoon when I get home to see what happens. If that's the case, I don't need a new power supply, since I've also seen these Molex-SATA converters
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You don't need that much power, not even close, we're talking about the power consumption of a gaming computer and this setup doesn't need that.
Moreover, I already told you that you caught me out, that I'm not very knowledgeable about this (as usual :ugly: ), but I assure you it's not a power supply issue and that's something that can be proven in a very simple way: connect the drives internally, like a normal hard drive. The system will boot and you'll access them without any problems.
Because this chassis has very limited interior space and you won't be able to anchor the drives, that's why I suggested getting another format, if that's not possible, that's fine, just look for another solution.
When I say it's a "motherboard problem", I mean that it "only" comes with 2 USB 3.0 ports.
The allocation for each USB line is 900 mA for 3.0 and 500 mA for 2.0. That's the problem: you need another port with at least 700 mA. That's why I recommended a self-powered USB 3.0 hub, considering that in your particular case you need its adapter (the plug that powers the hub) to be able to power each of the ports with the appropriate amperage (if they are 4 * 900 mA = 3.6 A, although we accept "ship" if it's 3.5 A)
I'm going to assume (at the risk of being wrong) that you use the USB 3.0 ports (the two that come on the back) to connect the external drives, and the problem occurs when you connect a third one to a USB 2.0, have you tried connecting them first to the 2.0 and the third one (last) to the 3.0?
To be sure, check how much the drives ask for on the +5V line. If the MyBook and the Essential have WD Greens, they should need 600 mA, while if they have Caviar, it's 650 mA. In any case, more than what a USB 2.0 port can provide.
A more powerful power supply, up to a point, never hurts: it's better to have more than not enough. But note that the power supply you have gives 26 A for the +5 V line, which is the one used by (among others) the USB ports, the one you want to buy gives 25 A. -
Another solution, simple and much more affordable than the external hub, is to get a USB 3.0 rear panel (with two ports) and connect it to the internal USB 3.0 connector on the motherboard (marked as F_USB30), which is just sitting there laughing its ass off.
Installation is as easy as plugging it into the board and screwing it into one of the rear slots, and you would have 4 fully operational USB 3.0 ports. -
Well, I finally found the problem when I got home. It was a digital signature conflict on the hard drives, between the two Western Digital MyBook. When I accessed the device manager, I saw that it recognized it but was disabled for that reason, and doing a quick search, it seems to be a common issue in Windows 7.
Signature Collision: Problem with hard drives in Windows 7
In any case, that last option you mentioned about the back panel I was already considering yesterday. You are referring to this: DeLOCK USB 3.0 19-pin - 2 x USB 3.0-A. I also saw them with PCI Express connection instead of 19 pins to F_USB30, but I don't know if there is a difference in transfer speed between both connections: Sharkoon USB3.0 Host Controller Card PCI Express - PCI Express Card. Especially because, since I have to place an order, I don't want to have to pay shipping costs in two places.
Edit: Well, after researching a bit, the answer is yes. The bandwidth of PCI-E 1x is much lower than that of USB 3.0, although slightly higher than that of USB 2.0, so I will reserve this expansion to look for it in a physical store.
