GPU Boost 2.0 - Operation and overclocking of the Geforce Titan
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The first one is the original one from Naenom. This user made it to measure his graphic. It applies a voltage of 1.21 under load (it lowers the voltage by 2d), a Boost of 1.202 Mhz, unlocks the fan so it can reach 100%, and allows up to 150% consumption and up to 1,400 Mhz of overclocking. It is the most used and has a very high success rate, almost all Titan owners do well with it.
Then modifications started to come out, especially in the Boost and voltage area. If a Titan needs less voltage to be stable at 1.202 Mhz, then better, that's why there are several. Analogously, if you are unlucky and it's not stable at 1.202 Mhz, then it's better to use one that has a lower Boost, 1.100 Mhz, for example.
It should be noted that these modifications are "ruined" by the Precision if you set it to boot with Windows. For example, if you set an offset of only +100, and restart the computer, it will no longer go to 1.202 Mhz, but to 1.100 Mhz or similar. If you set Boost to 0, it stays as it came from the factory, in my case 1.006. But beware, if you launch the Precision once Windows has started and set an offset of +200, you will find the graphic at 1.400 Mhz …..... and it will probably explode, I say this because it happened to me :wall:
So since you can tweak it all later via software, the voltage, the offset, etc., lowering or raising it at will, I didn't complicate my life and put the first Bios, which I believe is the one that Jotele and ELP3 also used.
Regards
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The first one is the original one from Naenom. This user made it to measure his graphic. It applies a voltage of 1.21 when loaded (it lowers the voltage in 2d), a Boost of 1.202 Mhz, unlocks the fan so it can reach 100%, and allows up to 150% consumption and up to 1.400 Mhz of overclocking. It is the most used and has a very high success rate, almost all Titan owners do well with it.
Then modifications started to come out, especially in the Boost and voltage area. If a Titan needs less voltage to be stable at 1.202 Mhz, then better, that's why there are several. Analogously, if you are unlucky and it's not stable at 1.202 Mhz, then it's better to use one that has a lower Boost, 1.100 Mhz, for example.
It should be noted that these modifications are "ruined" by the Precision if you set it to boot with Windows. For example, if you set an offset of only +100, and reboot the computer, it will no longer go to 1.202 Mhz, but to 1.100 Mhz or similar. If you set Boost to 0, it stays as it came from the factory, in my case 1.006. But beware, if you launch the Precision once Windows has started and set an offset of +200, you will find the graphic at 1.400 Mhz …..... and it will probably explode, I say this because it has happened to me :wall:
So since you can tweak it all later via software, the voltage, the offset, etc., lowering or raising it at will, I didn't complicate my life and put the first Bios, which I believe is the one that Jotele and ELP3 also used.
Regards
Well I'm starting to understand it, generally everyone uses Bios 1 but if you can use Bios 3 or 4 that have lower voltage, better (according to the creator says in a paragraph that uses Bios 1 for bench and Bios 4 for gaming).
The precision if it starts with windows already leaves it by default at 1202 and if I reboot it goes back to 1006, on the other hand once windows is started if I raise the offset it also increases the boost and if it's not stable I should put - 102 and take it to 1100.
Now due to lack of time I doubt I'll try it next week I'll get around to updating the Bios.
Regards and thanks.
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The first one is the original one from Naenom. This user made it to measure his graphic. It applies a voltage of 1.21 under load (it lowers the voltage in 2d), a Boost of 1.202 Mhz, unlocks the fan so it can reach 100%, and allows up to 150% consumption and up to 1,400 Mhz of overclocking. It is the most used and has a very high success rate, almost all Titan owners do well with it.
Then modifications started to come out, especially in the Boost and voltage area. If a Titan needs less voltage to be stable at 1.202 Mhz, then better, that's why there are several. Analogously, if you are unlucky and it's not stable at 1.202 Mhz, then it's better to use one that has a lower Boost, 1.100 Mhz, for example.
It should be noted that these modifications are "ruined" by Precision if you set it to boot with Windows. For example, if you set an offset of only +100, and restart the computer, it will no longer go to 1.202 Mhz, but to 1.100 Mhz or similar. If you set Boost to 0, it will stay as it came from the factory, in my case 1.006. But beware, if you launch Precision once Windows has started and set an offset of +200, you will find the graphic at 1.400 Mhz …..... and it will probably explode, I say this because it has happened to me :wall:
So since you can tweak it all later via software, the voltage, the offset, etc., lowering or raising it at will, I didn't complicate my life and put the first Bios, which I believe is the one Jotele and ELP3 also used.
Regards
Indeed, to go over 1200, you need more voltage than that 1.21, at least for one of my Gigabyte, the SC I have tested up to 1245 and it didn't explode, but the others do explode and I can't keep going up. I have enough with the performance they give at 1200, for now I don't dare to put more voltage. Remember that they are still without drivers, although they have the beastly performance they have with these bios. And they should increase performance.
I already have a response from Naennon, that there's no problem, thanks from here too…...
. So as soon as I have a moment I will make a small guide and send it to you, along with the bios PepilloRegards
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I have made the guide, and I have sent it to you **Pepillo** along with the 6 bios that I have, so that you can add it to the first post, please check it to see if I have left anything out. Very important, remember to keep a close eye on the temperatures when you flash the cards. A good fan profile, created in AB, or EVGA P, and you will not have any problems. A greeting... -
Updated, JoteleThanks
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Amazing as always, thank you very much to both of you (pepillo and jotole) for the information.
Greetings, masters. ;D
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If you wanted to update the bios1 to 1.21
"nvflash -4 -5 -6 BIOSNAME.rom"
the command should be:
nvflash -4 -5 -6 bios1.rom?
the original user always used the " for a particular reason?
The bios of Jotole 115p, what voltage does it use? does it automatically set to 1202 core?
Regards.
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If I wanted to update to bios1 of 1.21
"nvflash -4 -5 -6 BIOSNAME.rom"
the command should be:
nvflash -4 -5 -6 bios1.rom?
the original user always used the " is it for something in particular?
Regards.-
1. nvflash -b backup.rom (you make a backup of your rom)
2. nvflash –protectoff (remove the protection)
3. nvflash -4 -5 -6 BIOS1.rom (Force the BIOS)
4. Ask for confirmation 2 times, Yes 2 times
5. It takes a while
6. RestartIndeed, it would be the command nvflash -4 -5 -6 BIOS1.rom.
I don't understand about the user….
Regards...
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1. nvflash -b backup.rom (haces backup de tu rom)
2. nvflash –protectoff (quita la protección)
3. nvflash -4 -5 -6 BIOS1.rom (Fuerzas la BIOS)
4. Pide confirmación 2 veces, Yes 2 veces
5. Tarda un poco
6. ReiniciarEfectivamente, sería el comando nvflash -4 -5 -6 BIOS1.rom.
No te entoendo lo del usuario….
Salu2...
Me refiero a la guia en Inglés el usuario siempre a los comandos los pone con " pero despues dice without quote
Gracias.-
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I refer to the English guide the user always puts the commands with " but then says without quote
Thanks.-
Ah right, now I think I understand you, that in the English guide they put quotation marks ("). When something is put in quotation marks it is because it has been said or done as it is written in the quotation marks. I have not put them in to avoid creating confusion, and for someone to put them in. The commands are WITHOUT quotation marks.
I don't know if you are referring to that…...
No hay de que........ ;).
Salu2...
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If I was referring to that, thank you very much.-
Salu2.-
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Patagonico, have you changed the bios? How did it go?
Best regards
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Patagonico, ¿Has cambiado la bios? ¿Como te ha ido?
Saludos
Hola Pepillo no he podido estoy probando abro el comando cmd, quito la proteción, pongo los valores para actualizar la bios me pide la 1 confirmación le doy yes, pero no me pidio el 2º yes y se cerro la pantalla de dos que ejecuta el comando quedando solo la del prompt original.-
Edito
Me actualizo la bios me quito la limitación del 106 sube hasta el 149, pero pense que automaticamente se seteaba para arrancar a 1202 pero sigo viendo los mismos valores que la Bios original.-
Debo crear un perfil en el Evga precission? de ser asi que valores ingreso ?
Salu2.-
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La biso te lo pone automáticamente a 1.202 Mhz, lo que si tienes el eVGA Precision para que se inicie con el sistema, este te lo vuelve a poner como de fábrica. Al menos a mi, si inicio el S.O. sin el eVGA, estoy a 1.202 Mhz. Pero mejor que lo puedas controlar con el Precision y poner el offset que quieras y te sea estable (y no te olvides de modificar el perfil del ventilador y aumentar el Power a 120%-130%)
Saludos
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La biso te lo pone automáticamente a 1.202 Mhz, lo que si tienes el eVGA Precision para que se inicie con el sistema, este te lo vuelve a poner como de fábrica. Al menos a mi, si inicio el S.O. sin el eVGA, estoy a 1.202 Mhz. Pero mejor que lo puedas controlar con el Precision y poner el offset que quieras y te sea estable (y no te olvides de modificar el perfil del ventilador y aumentar el Power a 120%-130%)
Saludos
Estuve probando un poco con los valores del tutorial
Power Target 130%
Temperatura 90º
Gpu clock + 200
mem clock + 150Por lo que veo es una ganancia aproximada del 15-20% en el Bioshock pero la temperatura me subio de 78º a 84ºC.
Apague y arranque nuevamente y se mantenia el perfil en el Evga precision 1037 core, configure para que no arranque en windows y al reiniciar la bios estaba nuevamente en 837 sin el Evga mirando en el GPU-Z.
Saludos.-
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La primera es la original de Naenom. Este usuario la hizo a medida de su gráfica. Aplica un voltaje de 1,21 en carga (baja el voltaje en 2d), un Boost de 1.202 Mhz, desbloquea el ventilador para que pueda llegar al 100%, y permite hasta un 150% de consumo y hasta 1.400 Mhz de overclock. Es la más utilizada y tiene una tasa de éxito muy alta, a casi todos los poseedores de Titan les va bien.
Luego empezaron a salir modificaciones, sobre todo en el tema del Boost y el voltaje. Si a una Titan le basta menos voltaje para mostrase estable a 1.202 Mhz, pues mejor, por eso hay varias. De manera análoga, si tienes la mala suerte de que no te es estable a 1.202 Mhz, lo suyo es usar una que tenga un Boost menor, 1.100 Mhz, por ejemplo.
Hay que tener en cuenta que estas modificaciones las "machaca" el Precision luego si lo pones para que te arranque con el Windows. Por ejemplo, si pones un offset solo de +100, y reinicias el ordenador, ya no va a 1.202 Mhz, si no a 1.100 Mhz o similar. Si pones 0 en el Boost, se te queda como de fábrica, en mi caso 1.006. Pero ojo, si lanzas el Precision una vez arrancado el Windows y pones un offset de +200, te encontrarás la gráfica a 1.400 Mhz …..... y seguramente te pete, lo digo porque me ha pasado :wall:
Así que como luego puedes retocarlo vía software todo, el voltaje, el offset, etc., bajándolo o subiéndolo a voluntad, no me compliqué la vida y puse la primera Bios, que creo que es la que usó también Jotele y ELP3.
Saludos
Probando llegue a 1271 de core arrancando sin el Evga (default 1202) se ve en el máximo de gpuz aunque todavía falta por probar un poco mas.
Aunque todavía no capto la relación de core clock con la mem clock para que no pete :wall:
Cual seria el mejor programa para probar su estabilidad?
Salu2.
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Sube la memoria, pasa un benchmark, y verás que no ganas nada. Al menos en mi experiencia. Por lo tanto, sube sólo el core, cada Mhz de más te da mayor puntuación en los benchmarks y deja la memoria sin tocar, que encima aumenta el consumo subirla. En cuanto a la estabilidad, pasa una batería de Unigine y 3dMark, y luego juega una hora o más a algún título exigente, como el Crysis 3, y listo.
Saludos
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This post is being processed/translated. The original version will be shown:
Sube la memoria, pasa un benchmark, y verás que no ganas nada. Al menos en mi experiencia. Por lo tanto, sube sólo el core, cada Mhz de más te da mayor puntuación en los benchmarks y deja la memoria sin tocar, que encima aumenta el consumo subirla. En cuanto a la estabilidad, pasa una batería de Unigine y 3dMark, y luego juega una hora o más a algún título exigente, como el Crysis 3, y listo.
Saludos
Bien iremos probando, subi el power target a 130%, la gráfica alncanzo los 82ºC con el ventilador a 90% ahora en el GPU-Z en power consumition el TDP llego a un máximo de 129,4% :susto: esta bien? o deberia estar en 100, y como afecta esto al consumo que comentais de 250W y no pasar de 285W .
Saludos.-
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This post is being processed/translated. The original version will be shown:
Bien iremos probando, subi el power target a 130%, la gráfica alncanzo los 82ºC con el ventilador a 90% ahora en el GPU-Z en power consumition el TDP llego a un máximo de 129,4% :susto: esta bien? o deberia estar en 100, y como afecta esto al consumo que comentais de 250W y no pasar de 285W .
Saludos.-
Ahora que la tienes desbloqueada hazle un perfil de ventilador mejor, asi mantendrás las temperaturas y ganas rendimiento.
saludos
