Test of the Real Nvidia Gtx Titan, single-sli-tri Sli, 4 WAY SLI
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Hello everyone!
I have read some of your great contributions and help in other forums.
I am glad to see you here.
I am saving up for a Titan or a cut-down Titan (let's hope it's worth between 600-800)
I was about to sell my Sli Gtx480 and Praimus was about to.
I decided to hold on to the stove for one more summer.
The performance is enough for everything these power-hungry ones do.
The bad thing is when playing with 3 monitors of 24" I start to remove filters and +…
For now we will continue saving for the beast and watching home reviews from all of you!!Regards
Welcome here, the 480s as well as the 580s have come out good but for those 3 monitor resolutions they are already struggling not because of power but because of vram, this is happening in some new games that are consuming a lot of memory.
The Titan besides already clearly outperforming a SLI of 480s and more at those resolutions, has plenty of Vram, just in case later on there is a bargain and you can put in two or more, but right now they are very expensive, I am also afraid that if they release a K20 it will also be expensive as they will not have competition apparently, if AMD releases the 8000 series then surely they would lower prices, also that nvidia would release the 700.
That's why I hope that maybe in the end two 780s will cost me what a Titan, I will upgrade my equipment, the bad thing is if they delay the 700 series as well as AMD with the 8000.
regards
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Welcome here, the 480 like the 580 have come out good but for those resolutions of 3 monitors they are already struggling not for power but for vram, this is happening in some new games that are consuming a lot of memory.
The Titan in addition to the fact that a single one is going to clearly outperform a SLI of 480 and more at those resolutions, has plenty of Vram, in case if in the future there is some bargain and you can put two or more, but right now they are very expensive, I am also afraid that if they release a K20 it will also cost a lot because apparently they will not have competition, if AMD releases the 8000 series then surely they will lower, besides that nvidia would release the 700.
That's why I hope that maybe in the end two 780 will come out for what a Titan, I have already updated my equipment, the bad thing is if they also delay the 700 series like AMD with the 8000.
regards
I have already noticed it with in the Hitman that I have to lower quite a bit the filters and AA so that it moves to 60fps without strange drops.
The Crysis 3 and the new Tomb Raider I have to taste with 3 monitors
I am saving for the new generation that has signs that they won't release it until 2014.
Since with the SLI Gtx 480 this summer promises a lot of heat!! Let's see if these Titans lowerRegards
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Hello again, fellow users. Well, I've already set it up on my system, and, well, after seeing what's been posted here, I'm a bit disappointed. I'll explain. The maximum boost it gives me out of the box is 966. Leaving the power target at 100 and the temperature at 80. Fan auto. If I raise the power target to 106, it stays at 966 and 1.15 volts. Okay. I raise the temp target to 90 and I get the same thing, 966 at 1.15 volts. Disappointed because people around here talk about 1006-158-1150... The only way to reach 1058 is by raising the GPU clock offset. Here the boost goes up to 1084 and even 1150. That said, I ran OCCT and it's stable at 1084. At 1150 it crashes (I get errors), but it's stable (from what little I've tested) in games. Let's see if you can help me out. I'm in the testing phase. Thanks. -
Hello Teeth.
The Titan runs at 837 with a boost of 876. From there, each one gives a different boost without touching anything, which comes "as a gift" and cannot be guaranteed, the most common ones are your 966, the 1,006, and a third of something more that I no longer remember. Mine gives 1,006, others give more, and others, like yours, less. If you only increase the voltage, the boost also increases, in my case 1,032. For more, it's time to play with the core offset, test stability and throttling, but as always in this world of overclocking, no two graphics cards are the same and not all of them do 1,200 Mhz, so don't worry about it and don't be upset about 50 Mhz less and enjoy that piece of a graphics card.
As a curiosity, what ASIC do you have? In my case it is 78.1%
Regards
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Hello Pepillo. Thanks for your help.
The graphic card holds up well up to 1150 OC, but I have it at 1084. Without touching voltage. The memos go well even at 6500, but I haven't touched them.
The ASIC is quite low, 66.9. That's what made me doubt about returning it.
Anyway, from 980 to 1006 it's not that there's an abyss, and, overclocking it, it goes up well to 1084 and stays there stuck.
What do you think about the ASIC?
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1.084 Mhz without touching voltage, it seems more than correct to me, if it's without Throttling, many would already want it.
Look, I'll explain myself: These cards come limited by consumption and temperature. The maximum you can go up to, without changing the bios, is 106% of consumption, and the temperature to 95º, which doesn't normally affect because in a well-cooled case, neither with overclocking nor overvoltage does it go beyond 80º-82º. Due to a problem recognized by nVidia itself, the drivers read a lower consumption than the real one, but when you get close to 97%-98% you are in reality already at the limit of 106%, the 265W, and they start to lower the clock and the voltage, the famous throttling. This can only be fixed by flashing the bios to allow the 300W.
Therefore, touching the voltage immediately brings negative consequences, consumption skyrockets and throttling appears earlier. It also happens, for example, if you modify the fan profile to keep it cooler (something totally unnecessary, by the way, since the temperature limit is not reached due to its excellent series cooling) that it consumes more.
In short, in my experience, the best thing is to look for the maximum that you can do with the series voltage and without throttling appearing. Look, this is the maximum that I achieve in those conditions:
1.150 Mhz of core and the memories at 6.302 Mhz. The core can't hold much more without raising voltage, which would skyrocket consumption and lower my clock, and the memos, although it can go up more, I'm already at the consumption limit, peaks of 96%-97%, anything I touch already makes throttling appear. That is in my opinion the ideal overclock for a Titan. If you look closely at the graph on the left, you'll see how the GPU speed remained stable at those 1.150 Mhz throughout the benchmark. For example, with the core at 1.163 Mhz and the memos at 6.400 Mhz, it also holds without raising the voltage, but there are punctual drops in speed in the test for exceeding the maximum consumption. Although I can go up more if I touch the voltage, and even achieve some marginally higher score in the overall test, I would do it at the cost of losing that stability of the processor clock, with ups and downs, and that seems to me to be a bit of self-deception about the card's capacity. If you want more, you have to flash the bios to allow those 300W, otherwise, I assure you that I have read the entire thread of overclock.net of the titan, more than 6,000 posts, and most would be more than happy to have a Titan like mine, that without touching bios or voltages, reaches 1.150 Mhz of core with 0 Throttling. Don't believe everything you read about 1.200 Mhz or more, they do it with throttling or with modified bios that allow greater consumption, without knowing the effect it can have in the long term on the card. That said, check that the core clock is stable in your overclock.
As for the ASIC, in this series many claim that it has a lot to do with those differences in boost from one card to another. Go figure, in any case, I don't think there's a big difference between your card and mine.
Regards
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Thanks for your help.
Right now I'm testing the graphics with Crysis 3. At 1150 it goes to the desktop. It's more comfortable at 1110 or 1084. If I leave this frequency it usually stays there. It may drop to 1071.
I'm going to run the unigine and I'll tell you more.
The difference is that if I put 150 offset like you, due to the difference in the initial boost, it stays at 1110. It starts at 1124 to 1.16, but it goes as soon as it approaches 80 degrees (regardless of whether I mark the temperature at 94 degrees, which is curious).
Also, increasing by 13 mv to reach 1150 also fails.
What tool do you recommend for testing the correct operation of the overclock? I used to do it with OCCT, but it's no longer good for these series.
Thanks, really.
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Run Unigine as I do, in extreme and in windowed mode, with the graphics open to verify that it doesn't throttle you. And I repeat, it's not the temperature (although higher temperature also means higher consumption), it's the consumption that causes the clock to drop, more than proven. Unigine is very demanding in that regard, you'll see that it's not easy to avoid throttling. Generally this appears before the graphics reach their maximum and you crash, especially if you test little by little. Look for what I have done, your stable maximum and tell me things. Then, a good session of Crysis 3 is a good confirmation of the stability of that overclock. Your lower boost when putting the same offset is probably that lower ASIC of your card. Saludos -
Thanks Pepillo, really, for going to so much trouble to help me out.
Right now I've passed a test with the unigine. It stays stuck at 1084, 1.15 and 250 of memory (6500).
It's one frame below your maximum, and two above your minimum, which you posted.
What I observe is that the clock oscillates when the fan gets close to 65-70%. There the clock goes down. If it stays below, it's fine.
I'm going for the next step, I'll let you know, and I'm going to bed, because tomorrow I have 10 hours of work...
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It's what I told you, if the clock goes down, and the fan reaches 65%-70%, you're at a higher temperature than my tests (note that my fan didn't go over 61% on automatic), and exceeding the maximum consumption. Although you get a higher score, it's not ideal for a 100% stable overclock for gaming. Lower it a bit until the clock stays stuck at a frequency all the time (also play with the memory, everything influences consumption), and that will be the ideal maximum to leave your Titan in stock (another thing is for benchmarking). I also wake up early and have to go to sleep, we'll "talk" tomorrow.Regards
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Ok. We will continue the discussion tomorrow.
I just passed the bench, 1110, 6500. Stable without crashes. The only thing that fluctuates is at the beginning, when it goes from 1.16 volts to 1.15, from 1124 to 1110. At that frequency it gets stuck.
It seems that I am beginning to see how the graph works.
Pepillo, we will continue with the work tomorrow.
Thanks again for your help. I will never get tired of telling you. Rest!!!
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Thanks Pepillo, really, for taking so much trouble to help me out.
Right now I've passed a test with the unigine. It stays stuck at 1084, 1.15 and 250 of memories (6500).
There is one frame below your maximum, and two above your minimum, which you posted.
What I observe is that the clock oscillates when the fan gets close to 65-70%. There the clock goes down. If it stays below, it's fine.
I'm going for the next step, I'll let you know, and I'm going to bed, because tomorrow I have 10 hours of work…
Of course if the fan revs up more it consumes more and that's what limits these cards, the consumption is not as they said according to the temperature it's because of consumption that's why if you block the fan for example at 50% it's easy to hold the boost better, if you put it at 100% it will last less.
What you're interested in is a stable frequency for gaming, in the end with the Titans for gaming there's not much difference that it goes up a little more, in benchmark it would be noticed a little more but in games it should be very little.
What matters is a stable boost and that the graphics are at a good temperature and don't make much noise.
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Sure, if the fan spins faster it consumes more and that's what limits these cards, the consumption isn't as they said, according to temperature, it's because of consumption, that's why if you block the fan for example at 50% it's easy for it to hold the boost better, if you put it at 100% it will hold less.
What you're interested in is a stable frequency for gaming, in the end with the Titans for gaming there isn't much difference that it goes up a little more, in benchmarks it would be noticed a little more but in games it should be little.
What matters is a stable boost and that the graphics are at a good temperature and don't make much noise.
Hi fjavi, well yes, when I get home I'll do some more tests. I don't mind that it doesn't go up to 1150 or anything like that, what bothers me (out of habit, more than anything else) is that, from what I see in forums or in reviews (I pay less attention to these), generally, without touching anything, they go up to 1006, 1058…, although then they fall to 980 or 1006 respectively.
The one I have, as I observed in the photos of the ELP3, goes up to 980. If it gets hot, it automatically goes down to 967 and 1.15.
Basically that's it, it's a matter of habit. It's true that, I've only had a day to tinker with it and that work doesn't allow me to spend more time with it, and that, I hope, that, at least, it stays at 1084 continuously. But, of course, this overclocking is a lottery and, generally, I don't usually have much luck with the components...
It is true what Pepillo says, I've taken a look around the EVGA forums and some seem to have been sent selected graphics cards, because you can see 1250 and other things, but, of course, going up to 1150 at full voltage and passing a Unigine doesn't seem to me to be a good methodology for seeking or fine-tuning an overclock...
Another thing I don't understand, and this question is for Pepillo, is that in the image you posted your graphics card goes to 1.15 from the beginning of the Unigine. However, mine starts at 1.16 and then goes down to 1.15. Is that normal?
And another thing I haven't mentioned is that the installation of the Titan was done without formatting from the SLI of the 480. It's true that I went through Driversweeper and other removal tools. Should I format? (Perezón).
Thanks!!!
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The voltage thing doesn't work for me, as you can see in the graph it goes up to 1.15 and stays there, although I wouldn't give it much importance. If you've been to overclock.net, precisely in one of the last posts they mentioned that the usual ASIC for these cards is between 65 and 75, very few are 80.
As for the drivers, I had a clean install from a few days ago of Seven with the GTX 580 SLI, and I didn't format, nor driveswepeer, nor anything, just a clean install from the nVidia panel, I've always done well that way. I have it as I showed you, 1,150 Mhz of Core and 6.302 Mhz in memory without touching voltages, and it passes all the usual benchmark batteries 3dMark, Unigine, etc., but, above all, I've played the whole Dishonored and many hours of Crysis 3 and Dead Space 3, without the slightest problem. For me that's worth more than any stress program, I've been overclocking components that way for a long time and not running a few minutes of synthetic benchmarks. I've seen (and suffered) more than once that what seems stable in those benchmarks then isn't when playing. I use synthetic programs to get a quick idea of where I can go, then I lower it a bit, and I play for hours, that's what counts.
Regards
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Well, once again, and since I can't stay still, I have to swallow what I said about not flashing them….....:wall: Yesterday all the parts for the new RL arrived, including the graphics blocks. So before removing the reference cooler and putting in the blocks, I pulled the wool over my own eyes and flashed the Titans.........................:ugly: I put one of the most aggressive ones on them, since we were at it...........;D Just have to be careful when putting OC on them, in case they end up as a very pretty doorstop..............xD (and expensive).... I flashed them one by one, following the OCN guide, and a little help.
and the truth is it's impressive. To see these cards at 1200 Mhz without any throttling and getting 9 fps in the Unigine test I have, with the graphics at 1200. I didn't push it any further, and it was the first OC I tried by eye, raising the vcore by 10, and the Power Limit to 120%. and 200 on the Clock. I don't have screenshots because right after I removed the graphics card, I put another one in to do the same process. Flash it, check that it boots up (very important...xD) and run a full Unigine to check that there were no problems. and I started to disassemble. But as soon as it's operational, you'll see how they pull without throttling, it's crazy... Regards....
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Heh, I would have bet money that you would end up doing it, and when I saw that you had signed up for OCN, I thought that in less than 24h you would do it
I was about to the other day, but I stopped myself because I read that in idle, on the desktop, the voltage does not go down. Do you mind checking if that's the case? Which bios have you used? There are dozens of them....
I feel like trying it out, mine doesn't need a 200 offset, with 175 it already goes over 1.200 Mhz, I have the feeling that I got a good one and I feel a bit bad not squeezing it.
Regards
