My PC won't turn on because of the temperature

[defaultuser]

@clipper said in My pc won't turn on because of the temperature:

@defaultuser I don't think it's the GPU ventilation profile.

Ha, I wasn't referring to that, the comment came because I think graphics cards are what die the most, and they suffer a lot.

I would also point to the graphics card, but I'm not so sure about how it makes the micro go up that many degrees.

so have you cleaned the disipa already? I'm going to palpas, I don't remember what these things were like anymore haha, I have no idea what things have been ruled out and/or have already been done.

[Clipper]

@defaultuser sometimes people say that the pc turns off because of temperature...
But temperature of what?
CPU... GPU
DDR voltages...
When it is not explained well, we end up like this.
Regards

[defaultuser]

@chixz said in My pc won't turn on because of the temperature:

@clipper turns on perfectly like this

Ok, with just the micro and a ram module it turns on well, what temperatures? Normal, or just turns on and works?

You will have to test the same but with the other module, and with the other slot you were using, it is logical.

You will have to boot like this, and make sure first that it is perfect in everything.

Also idem of the same but adding the M2 disk.

[defaultuser]

Well, there's nothing else to say, as you can already play enough.
I'll give news again when I'm desperate, it's not a problem.

[chixz]

@defaultuser sorry guys, I sent to order a new heatsink for the pc and I forgot about the blog, but the problem persists and the pc turns off at 24º monitored from the bios, I will try every method they said so far, starting by formatting the bios

[chixz]

@defaultuser the new heatsink is this one

[chixz]

Guys, I find it strange that when I turn it on and enter Windows at once, it doesn't turn off anymore

[Sylver]

@chixz If you reset the BIOS, something was probably wrong with it and it's fixed now.

Saludos

[defaultuser]

@chixz said in My pc won't turn on because of the temperature:

Guys, I think it's weird that when I turn it on and enter Windows at once, it doesn't turn off anymore

That after resetting the bios, right?

By the way, in all the photos you leave out the front of the tower, after they already asked you about the fans it has. Does it?

[Clipper]

@chixz said in My pc won't turn on because of the temperature:

@defaultuser the new radiator is that one

I highly doubt that 120 radiator will perform better than the one you had with air
Best regards

[Fassou]

Out of curiosity. In the first photo with the air cooler.
Was the computer on?

Regards!

[krampak]

@fassou visual effect or module badly pinned?

[defaultuser]

It's not a visual effect, haha, I imagine the photo was taken between trying things out and it was just an oversight, otherwise I would have shouted at him for RAM.

@Clipper It's not going to improve with the AIO either, I think, but well, if he puts good ventilation in the tower, it's fine, and if he wants to go further, he puts another fan on the outside of the AIO, or even a 14 inch one with an adapter.

Better that he leaves everything as it is while he better understands his equipment, because the truth is we still don't know if it had a bad BIOS configuration, or the pipes of the cooler were stunned. Although at first it was the BIOS, we really don't know for sure.

[Clipper]

@defaultuser @defaultuser man.
More facing the creator of the thread.
There are many performance comparisons between stock coolers, air coolers and liquid cooling.
And basically it comes down to this:
Stock cooler, for office work and little more that doesn't dissipate much.
So it's best to change it as soon as possible.
Air coolers have a wide variety to choose from and work well with zero maintenance ( well... Every six months at most you have to clean them if you don't have dust filters )
L.C can improve the cooling of an air cooler in some cases.
For example a triton 88 ( which is the one I had, with three fans ) to improve temperature I had to go to a minimum 240 mm radiator and with a 360 something is noticeable.
With a 120 it's the same or worse.
That's with stock L.C systems ( no maintenance )
If we start changing or adding fans, system: pull push things change.
And L.C wins
But by putting in bills.
Regards

[chixz]

@krampak already took care of that in these days, if it was misplaced

[chixz]

@clipper I really did notice an improvement when I turned it on, from 42º degrees at rest it went down to 30º or even 27º, but you're giving me a reason so that beats my hunch

[_Neptunno_]

@chixz said in My pc won't turn on because of the temperature:

@clipper I really did notice an improvement when I turned it on, from 42º degrees at rest it went down to 30º or even 27º, but you're giving me a reason so that beats my hunch

Depending on the temperature of the room, set it to around 22-25º, it's quite reasonable that you have those 27-30º when you turn on the computer because you won't have a lower temperature than the room temperature unless you use some kind of refrigeration like liquid nitrogen or something similar. 42º was excessive, even if it caught you in the middle of summer...you just don't have time to reach that temperature when you turn on the computer unless the sensor is malfunctioning or the heatsink is poorly placed.

Regards.

[Clipper]

@chixz
I am old enough to have cut IDE cables so they would be narrower and improve, aesthetically and airflow.
The basic rule for lowering the temperatures of a PC is to bring in more air than all the internal components (CPU and GPU heatsinks) move, and as much as possible, create a "chimney" effect. Some cases, like the Talius, are like this: three fans below, three above, and three front fans, with one rear fan. Only the top and rear fans blow air out, and the rear one is optional.
This means that the bottom fans cool the GPU and the front fans cool the radiator you mount on top.
The rear fan can blow out residual heat or help improve the flow of fresh air to the GPU radiator, which has to absorb the heat from the GPU.
Regards

[defaultuser]

@clipper Here we are, good explanation and brief.

Going a step further with that topic, I currently have compartmentalized airflows.

The CPU cooler is not swallowing the hot air from the graphics card, this air is conducted directly to the back without barely contaminating the motherboard (M2 ram and chipset, but very little). The top front fan creates an exclusive tunnel for the top, from the edge of the backplate of the vga upwards and up to the exit of the CPU cooler.

The vga has separate intake and exhaust, it does not recirculate its hot flow, it feeds on fresh new air, the hot air that comes out of its cooler and its pcb comes out conducted directly towards the back of the case, and in addition the bottom front fan that feeds it with a flow independent of the top fan, produces a compartmentalized flow that allows to have very low temperatures without hardly using the noisy fans of the vga.

Result; I can play at night in a very very discreet way and with very good temperatures, in all components.

I admit that for now it is a cardboard prototype but it can perfectly be done with methacrylate or vinyl or another "more noble" material.

Manufacturers tried to do something similar once, but they did not put much interest in it to be honest, the usual thing, they wanted to charge a fortune for a nonsense badly applied and they would be afraid of going too far off the track and losing money against the competition.

[Clipper]

@defaultuser put a picture