My PC won't turn on because of the temperature

[Clipper]

@chixz said in My pc won't turn on because of the temperature:

@defaultuser the new radiator is that one

I highly doubt that 120 radiator will perform better than the one you had with air
Best regards

[Fassou]

Out of curiosity. In the first photo with the air cooler.
Was the computer on?

Regards!

[krampak]

@fassou visual effect or module badly pinned?

[defaultuser]

It's not a visual effect, haha, I imagine the photo was taken between trying things out and it was just an oversight, otherwise I would have shouted at him for RAM.

@Clipper It's not going to improve with the AIO either, I think, but well, if he puts good ventilation in the tower, it's fine, and if he wants to go further, he puts another fan on the outside of the AIO, or even a 14 inch one with an adapter.

Better that he leaves everything as it is while he better understands his equipment, because the truth is we still don't know if it had a bad BIOS configuration, or the pipes of the cooler were stunned. Although at first it was the BIOS, we really don't know for sure.

[Clipper]

@defaultuser @defaultuser man.
More facing the creator of the thread.
There are many performance comparisons between stock coolers, air coolers and liquid cooling.
And basically it comes down to this:
Stock cooler, for office work and little more that doesn't dissipate much.
So it's best to change it as soon as possible.
Air coolers have a wide variety to choose from and work well with zero maintenance ( well... Every six months at most you have to clean them if you don't have dust filters )
L.C can improve the cooling of an air cooler in some cases.
For example a triton 88 ( which is the one I had, with three fans ) to improve temperature I had to go to a minimum 240 mm radiator and with a 360 something is noticeable.
With a 120 it's the same or worse.
That's with stock L.C systems ( no maintenance )
If we start changing or adding fans, system: pull push things change.
And L.C wins
But by putting in bills.
Regards

[chixz]

@krampak already took care of that in these days, if it was misplaced

[chixz]

@clipper I really did notice an improvement when I turned it on, from 42º degrees at rest it went down to 30º or even 27º, but you're giving me a reason so that beats my hunch

[_Neptunno_]

@chixz said in My pc won't turn on because of the temperature:

@clipper I really did notice an improvement when I turned it on, from 42º degrees at rest it went down to 30º or even 27º, but you're giving me a reason so that beats my hunch

Depending on the temperature of the room, set it to around 22-25º, it's quite reasonable that you have those 27-30º when you turn on the computer because you won't have a lower temperature than the room temperature unless you use some kind of refrigeration like liquid nitrogen or something similar. 42º was excessive, even if it caught you in the middle of summer...you just don't have time to reach that temperature when you turn on the computer unless the sensor is malfunctioning or the heatsink is poorly placed.

Regards.

[Clipper]

@chixz
I am old enough to have cut IDE cables so they would be narrower and improve, aesthetically and airflow.
The basic rule for lowering the temperatures of a PC is to bring in more air than all the internal components (CPU and GPU heatsinks) move, and as much as possible, create a "chimney" effect. Some cases, like the Talius, are like this: three fans below, three above, and three front fans, with one rear fan. Only the top and rear fans blow air out, and the rear one is optional.
This means that the bottom fans cool the GPU and the front fans cool the radiator you mount on top.
The rear fan can blow out residual heat or help improve the flow of fresh air to the GPU radiator, which has to absorb the heat from the GPU.
Regards

[defaultuser]

@clipper Here we are, good explanation and brief.

Going a step further with that topic, I currently have compartmentalized airflows.

The CPU cooler is not swallowing the hot air from the graphics card, this air is conducted directly to the back without barely contaminating the motherboard (M2 ram and chipset, but very little). The top front fan creates an exclusive tunnel for the top, from the edge of the backplate of the vga upwards and up to the exit of the CPU cooler.

The vga has separate intake and exhaust, it does not recirculate its hot flow, it feeds on fresh new air, the hot air that comes out of its cooler and its pcb comes out conducted directly towards the back of the case, and in addition the bottom front fan that feeds it with a flow independent of the top fan, produces a compartmentalized flow that allows to have very low temperatures without hardly using the noisy fans of the vga.

Result; I can play at night in a very very discreet way and with very good temperatures, in all components.

I admit that for now it is a cardboard prototype but it can perfectly be done with methacrylate or vinyl or another "more noble" material.

Manufacturers tried to do something similar once, but they did not put much interest in it to be honest, the usual thing, they wanted to charge a fortune for a nonsense badly applied and they would be afraid of going too far off the track and losing money against the competition.

[Clipper]

@defaultuser put a picture

[defaultuser]

@clipper By private, shortly.

[defaultuser]

@clipper What tower are you using?

[Clipper]

@defaultuser a corsair icue 5000X
A whim on black friday.
Which, to be honest, has some serious flaws.
In my model (the front, sides, and top panel are glass) and the top panel makes it impossible to mount the R,L in push pull.
This is the one we discussed before:
https://talius.es/cajas/705-Talius-caja-Atx-gaming-Cronos-Orchid-RGB-cristal-templado-USB-30-8436550236231.html

I don't know how the finish will be.
Regards

[defaultuser]

@clipper said in My pc won't turn on because of the temperature:

corsair icue 5000X

Well, to be honest, it's a very high-quality tower, spacious, versatile, multipurpose, beautiful, etc., but it has silly flaws like a 20-euro tower.
For example, to leave it open for 12 or 14 fans, they simply make a hole that works for both, and when you put a 12, there's a margin that fits a finger and all, and the fan recirculates a lot of air in a silly loop,
(even so, they have taken into account that a 14 fan won't have any 12 profile right in front of the blades, positive point).
If we remove the glass, this effect is reduced quite a bit, but the moment the tower gets overpressure, it would directly recirculate again around the fan frame.

That's looking at it a bit superficially and in photos. And it's not that it's bad or anything, but there are important details that when you push things to the limit, they become important, and very important.

Look, I would actually start by having the radiator drawing from the outside, since you have such a hot micro and the tower has enough ventilation to not be affected at all by the radiator blowing inward. Besides, the radiator doesn't blow out very hot air unless you have it at minimums and the micro at full blast all the time, so you wouldn't harm the graphics card or anything.
Then, since the graphics card would evacuate directly to the outside, it would be an independent issue, even more so because of the large space available.

[JuezDred]

Hello, I know that motherboard very well and I have fought a lot with it. Have you thought about touching the heatsink of the VRMs? you could possibly burn your hand. you have to put a small fan forcing air towards them. and also change the thermal paste on the chipset. these components get too hot making the processor consume more voltage and overheating it. in addition to that, depending on the BIOS you have, you have an option to limit the power according to the processor's TDP. something that the Chinese have implemented recently. remember that the motherboard has recycled elements from servers. chipset, VRMs etc etc and are components designed to work with forced ventilation.