Try it first to see how it goes, if you only ordered one there is no problem and maybe you wouldn't have two either, they are not hot graphics, in that box maybe both have good temperature.

If you only ordered one and later you want another maybe it would be good to have one as a reference to put above, anyway maybe with these they don't get too hot even if they are both customized, there are people who have SLI of customized ones and they don't talk about bad temperature, that would be worse with hotter graphics, with these maybe it doesn't happen and if the one above gets hotter maybe the difference isn't that big.

The setup should be the other way around, the reference one above and the customized one below, the reference one higher than the other.

regards

@gamingpy:

jajaj entiendo fjavi tienes toda la razon, respecto a las graficas no me convencen del todo un SLI de las gtx 970 para poder jugar a resoluciones 4k.

Si te montaras un SLI sean de las 970 o 980 preferirias el modelo de referencia? por que? esa es una de las dudas mas grande que tengo que harias tu si tuvieses que elegir por cual de ellas optarias, de funcionar tendria que funcionar sean las de referencia o no pero la idea es darle caña y que pueda rendir lo mejor posible.

Yo para SLI prefiero el de referencia, pero la 970 el modelo de referencia me parece muy malo, si tuviera el disipador oficial de Nvidia estaría muy bien, asi como lo tiene la 980, pero los que se ven no me gustan nada, por eso con una caja que tenga buena ventilación y una placa que permita separación entre las dos graficas, con la 970 elegiría personalizadas y con la 980 los de referencia.

El porque es por que esas graficas personalizadas no les sienta bien estar juntas, una la de arriba se calentara unos cuantos grados mas, con los de referencia estaran mas igualadas en temperatura, aunque influye la ventilación de la caja y la separación entre tarjetas, si tiene buena separación y una ventilación buena dentro de la caja, con las personalizadas también podría ir bien, eso si no se piensa meter mas de dos con 3 o 4 ya desde luego yo solo quiero de referencia, o pensar en poner RL a las graficas.

saludos

@gamingpy:

The problem is solved, guys. The cause was that the VGA had blown its HDMI input and with the DVI output it works wonders. What I did was buy an adapter with a male DVI input and a female HDMI output. That was enough. Nothing was burned, neither the motherboard nor the memory. Everything is working. I just finished assembling everything yesterday. Thanks to a friend, we tested it at home and we cleared up the doubts. Wow, I didn't think so. Anyway, I have another 2011 motherboard up my sleeve, but I guess if I ever have problems with this motherboard, I'll have to replace it with that one. Anyway, thanks to everyone for the help.

Obs. In the part of turning on the motherboard manually, there's a button that says off and on. Apparently, according to my friend who read it in a forum, it should be on. So when we tried changing it to on, wuala, it turned on right away, recognizing the memory, CPU, etc. The only thing I had to do was reinstall the whole Windows 7 again, but that's history. As long as it works, I'm happy. Thanks again and I'm clarifying all this in case it might be useful to someone else someday.

It was a mistake not to tell you this because that's what happened to me with a 470 and 480. It doesn't always fail, but sometimes it goes black and doesn't work, so I connect it via DVI or DVI to HDMI. On an LG TV, it used to fail more often than on a Samsung, but HDMI fails.
The 480 has minihdmi as the output and I thought it was because of that output, but I saw normal HDMI failures too.
Although I thought you would have tried a different connection.

Regards

@hAyO:

On an economic level, I would recommend Asrock, specifically the X79 Extreme6, which costs around €190:
Asrock X79 Extreme6 90-MXGL80-A0UAYZ Placa Base

And it meets what you need, but before buying it, make sure that your CPU, graphics, memory, hard drives, etc., everything works OK, because with voltage increases sometimes not only the motherboard is affected.

Regards!

Thanks for responding, look I opted to buy the ASUS RAMPAGE IV GENE in the end, the only thing about this is that the memory sockets do not have 8 but 4 so I will have to settle for 16gb which I think is enough, right now the motherboard is on its way to my country.

Regards

@defaultuser:

What bad luck no…..

I would leave the board alone to make its beeps, and I would add the components one by one until it stops beeping, and if the board by itself doesn't beep or give any error then we know.

First just the board and the power supply
then board power supply and micro
then you add the ram
and finally you add the graphics

it would be good to know what "AA" means on that board

and it would also be good to test the graphics in another PC. You don't even need to touch drivers, just see the POST or bios in another PC with that graphics is enough.

Get the list of messages from the bios and boot the board alone with the power supply to see if it gives a normal message (cpu not present or something like that), or what it does....

Edit:
Maybe it would be a good idea to post your problem in the motherboard section with an appropriate title.

Regards.

Thanks to everyone for responding. The truth is that the board has definitely died. It had a power cut and everything thanks to the lightning that fell and also fried my router and well, I have to buy everything back.

It's a real shame anyway, thanks to everyone. I'm going to be testing overclocking with the new board which I'm looking at and most likely I'll buy the ASUS P9X79 or an EVGA x79. I'm not sure which one could be good.

Regards

@Fassou:

¿ Puedes volver a editarla para no poner más de 4 líneas de texto, como indican las normas?

Salu2!

Disculpa no me habia dado cuenta que ya me habia pasado un poquillo con la firma, saludos

Use the latest nvflash for Windows that you have on techpowerup.

Then you enter the administrator console (cmd) in administrator mode and through the cd.. you go to the folder where you have the nvflash and the bios.rom.

Then, inside that folder, you write, without the quotes:

"nvflash bios.rom -4 -5 -6"

If you have more than one graphics card, you have to use the –index

it would be like this:

"nvflash --index=0 bios.rom -4 -5 -6"

The 0 in the index is for the first graphics card, 1 for the second and so on...

Another thing, the bios.rom I put is an example. You will have to see how you have named the.rom file of the bios...

Once you have typed that, you put everything to yes and press enter, and it will tell you at the end that it has flashed successfully. Then you turn off the computer and restart.

It is preferable to uninstall the drivers beforehand, to then do a correct (customized) installation, and that everything is fine. It is also preferable to uninstall and reinstall the afterburner, precisionx...

--------------------------------------------------------------------SECOND EXPLANATION---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Download the nvflash for windows, it works on all windows including 8.1...

To make a backup, you have to do it before flashing the new bios. You put yourself in the folder where you have copied the nvflash with its files and the bios to flash, through the command console in administrator mode.

Once in the folder from the console, you type, without the quotes:

"nvflash --save bios.rom"

The bios.rom is the name you give to the bios you save, it can be bios, a, pepito...

Then after doing this, you just have to follow the steps explained before...

You download the nvflash from here:

techPowerUp!

The bios of svl7, from here:

9466d1383957876-80.80.30.00…zip (134,59 KB) - uploaded.net

Made by: vmanuelgm

@gamingpy:

Many thanks fjavi as always your answer is very complete, you are a great forum contributor thanks for your answer I will really see which one I decide on since as you say both are really good, I think I will get the evga because it is SC and brings a slightly higher clock at least a little more hehe since on amazon at the moment I do not see the gigabyte available although I would also love the winforce for another option I also have ebay but I never know I have never bought from ebay and I do not know if it would be good to buy from there then to regret having rushed and in the end it would be much more expensive <:(

Regards

The evga option is very good because it is the one with the most bios (modified), but in these graphics I do not think it will also matter that one has a higher frequency from the factory, because then the real boost that is reached will depend on the Asic or how good it comes out, my wf revision 2 comes to 954 and 1006 boost but in reality the boost is 1124, this is what is usually put in the games, others that are worse perhaps will not reach 1100 speaking of equal models and some that come out better than mine could be put at a higher frequency, that's why I think that the factory OC already influences little, because among equal models some will reach a higher boost than others.

Although if the manufacturer chooses the best Asics for their OC models then they could be somewhat better than the models without OC, the only problem I see with my WF is that it seems the phases do not keep them as cool as other models, but the GPU does keep it at very good temperatures, in fact it is easy for the evga to keep a slightly better temperature on the VRM than the WF, but the OC and boost issue is a lottery with all the 780 no matter the brand, although with voltage it seems that all go up.

The boost is actually an automatic OC, if the game demands and maintains high load on the GPU, it raises the frequency according to how good that GPU is, if it does not need so much load to maintain playable fps then it goes down in frequency and voltage, at least that's what my does, games like Crysis 3 can sometimes turn on by itself up to 1137mhz, although the normal is that it stays fixed at 1124 speaking of most games, new games that demand like AC4 or Batman, Splinter Cell BL, it usually stays alone at 1124 I only saw in Crysis 3 that sometimes it goes up even more frequency.

But a card without OC if it had luck with a very good Asic and came out good could reach more boost than one with OC that has a worse chip and worse Asic, although I suppose that manufacturers will put the best ones for their OC models, it's easy for the gigabyte to be good and turn on by itself with boost to 1200, although some will also be better than others speaking of that model.

regards

Well thank you very much I will see what happens, the thing is that in the BIOS of the machine where the virtual machine is running I do not have the BIOS password since I bought this laptop used and I do not have any more contact with the person who sold it to me and I will not be able to verify if it has it activated, but I will do the following I will try this configuration on my desktop PC to see if there is some kind of solution (accessing through a public IP) to this anyway thank you both for your time. Regards

I have used the ultra, they are first cousins, I found it somewhat complicated to spread it, you have to get the hang of the damn brush XD. Regarding temperatures, more than one will call me crazy, but I had the same as with artic silver 5 that I already had on. Therefore, seeing that the amount of paste is very scarce for its price, I do not recommend it.

Apart from that, I had problems with the water block, it fixed itself in such a way that it became part of the same block, I don't know if I can explain it, it got embedded in it, so that you could run your finger over it and it was totally flat.

In the end, I had to polish the block because there was no way to clean it :wall:.

PD: Recently I saw a comparison of thermal pastes and there were only two pastes that managed to improve artic silver 5 after its curing (200 h). And they were comparing I think 60 pastes, so it's not a joke.

It is also true that the mounting of the heatsink/block influences, in each mounting you will get a different temperature, that's why we must take our time to get the best possible one so that we don't have to keep testing continuously.

Best regards.

@gamingpy:

Suggestions…:wall:

Is it stable? If it is, that's the important thing, the memory should go to 1.65v, maybe that will allow you to lower the vcore a bit, I would leave the CPU power phase Auto, in these boards I think you shouldn't touch too many things and the optimized is more for energy saving, it could destabilize the OC although your OC is small and should be easy to keep stable.

Also, I leave the loadline Auto, although I don't have a board from that platform, maybe it's similar, I have a maximus VI, but in Auto it works well, to see it you could monitor voltage if for example in Windows you have 1.26v and when you enter OCCT it goes down, then possibly you have to put Loadline, if you see that the voltage is maintained or it goes down very little, then it's better to leave it Auto.

regards

@Patagonico:

Little is known about the GTX 790 and it is assumed that its price would be the same as a GTX 690

GeForce GTX 790 | VideoCardz.com

I don't know what country you are from but in Argentina, due to import problems, hardware has been taking 45 to 60 days for high-end products since its release date :mad:

ferelxyx, the comparisons I made against a GTX 780 showed a tie, the difference is null in Metro 2034.

Regards.

I live in Paraguay, friend, but as I said above, I prefer to bring it from Amazon and pay a little more than to wait for a company here to bring it today I'm going to get two GTX 780s to make an SLI, I think they would perform super well.

Regarding the GTX 790, it is a myth and a fake, I don't believe that news, besides there is no official news on the Nvidia website, and I hope it will be in the not so near future, as it would not be worth launching several GPUs in such a short time, it is better to wait a while so that a new range comes out with more options and improvements incorporated.

Exacto, tal y como dice el compañero fjavi, puedes hacer SLI con dos gráficas del mismo modelo, da igual la marca e incluso velocidades ya que por defecto te cogerá la que va a menor frecuencia, pero el SLI funcionará bien, puedes usar el EVGA Precission o el MSI Afterburner y ponerle que las sincronice o a la velocidad de la más lenta o a la de la más rápida, no hay ningún problema, en mi caso tengo un SLI de GTX480 y una tiene OC de casa (la EVGA SuperClocked) y la otra no (la Inno3D) y con el afterburner las tengo sincronizadas para que vayan las dos a la velocidad de la más rápida. Yo usaría la opción de hacerlo por software y así te ahorras el flashear la gráfica, con el consiguiente riesgo. Un saludo compañero. ;D

Son temperaturas bastante buenas,la memoria creo que no debe verse asi la frecuencia aunque tampoco creo que sean 8000 mhz,deberias poner el GPU-Z para ver a que frecuencia estan las memorias,por que creo que deberian estar mas bajas de frecuencia,posiblemente si las tienes tan subidas por eso se calientan mas que el propio GPU. http://gpuz.techpowerup.com/13/01/18/bg0.png saludos

Me alegro de que hayas conseguido una placa nueva y que el sonido le funcione. Menos mal que nos hiciste caso y la cambiaste, si no todavía podrías estar buscando la solución Ahora a disfrutarla y gracias por pasar a contar que lo pudiste solucionar. Saludos

Una imagen vale mas que mil palabras ;D [image: ddr3b.jpg]

mala suerte . cuando te compres la placa nueva revisa bien como pones los cables saludos