Test of the Real Nvidia Gtx Titan, single-sli-tri Sli, 4 WAY SLI
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I already have the 780, I didn't even put a driver, it picked up the ones I already had although I think I'm going to remove them, what a difference in temperature 23º on the desktop.
Very bad ASIC LOL.
regards
I've been lost this weekend and I find everything here XD.
Congratulations fjavi on the new acquisition. You must have noticed a good change compared to your old 480s…
From what I've seen in the images and tests you've done, it turned out good, that ASIC is notably high.
Now it's time to put in the pair :facepalm:
Don't mind seeing the boost, come on oscillate and more if you have the osd panel on to reflect it.Enjoy it, regards.
PD: ELP3 show us your rig!!!!!!! I love seeing a good R.L system and more knowing who has made it.....
Regards.
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What strikes me is the 8% load it's dedicated to Physx. It's incredible how little or nothing Nvidia bothers to optimize those effects, because 8% load on a lady Titan, and more so at a time when the character was standing still doing nothing, seems like a waste to me, in moments with more PhysX load it probably even goes over 15%.
I suppose a GTX 280/285 would fall short as dedicated to PhysX in this game…
Well, I think there are moments where a Titan for physx must reach 40% load, Arkham City already asked for a lot in PhysX in the Joker fight, in this one I found two areas where physics greatly increases the load on the graphics, I don't think a 280 can handle it, graphically it doesn't ask for much but this one does have more advanced physics, a 280 will help but it will also turn purple, that area where ELP3 is isn't a physically demanding area, for physx they should go better with graphics like 460/560, 650ti than a series 200.
Nvidia has greatly improved the performance of physX, what happens is that it's by areas, some don't give much load but others overload the physics card quite a bit.
This Batman is the best optimized of the three, the previous ones were worse when they came out, although it also has very tough areas.
regards
I've been lost this weekend and I find everything here XD.
Congratulations fjavi on the new acquisition. You must have noticed a good change compared to your old 480s…
From what I've been able to see in the images and tests you've done, you got a good one, that ASIC is notably high.
Now it's time to put in the pair :facepalm:
Don't mind seeing the boost, come on oscillate and more if you have the osd panel on to reflect it.Enjoy it, regards.
PD: ELP3 show us your rig!!!!!!! I love seeing a good R.L system and more knowing who made it.....
Regards.
The boost does bother me although in this one for those benchmarks it usually doesn't oscillate, it usually stays fixed as long as the card maintains high load, in Batman origin it bothered me sometimes because the card didn't have much load and it went down in frequency, although now that they put a patch on it it runs much better.
Then the 480s were very criticized, but they pull through that it's a pleasure, I mean it's incredible that for the time they have they continue to defend themselves so well, I'm talking about playing and rendering in games, they are hot and noisy, but game after game they measure up, for the time they have they continue to defend themselves very well.
The 780 pulls a little better, although not much and for now I'm not considering putting in a second 780 unless I change equipment or put a monitor with more resolution, because at my resolution I won't take advantage of that SLI well.
regards
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Well, I think there are moments where a Titan for physx should reach 40% load, Arkham City already asked for a lot in PhysX in the Joker fight, I found two areas where physics increases the load on the graphics a lot, I don't think a 280 can handle it, graphically it doesn't ask for much but this one does have more advanced physics, a 280 will help but will also make them purple, that area where ELP3 is is not a physically demanding area, for physx they should go for better graphics like 460/560, 650ti than a series 200.
Nvidia has improved the performance of physX a lot, what happens is that it goes by areas, some don't give much load but others overload the physics card quite a bit.
This Batman is the best optimized of the three, the previous ones were worse when they came out, although it also has very tough areas.
From my point of view, ELP3 has too much power in SLI at 1300 that the game doesn't need the dedicated one for physx, taking this out would maintain the 60 fps constant and at most would drop to 50 fps in 5% of the total game.
Regards.
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From my point of view, ELP3 has too much power in SLI at 1300 that the game doesn't need the dedicated card for physx, so disabling it would still maintain constant 60 fps and at most it would drop to 50 fps in 5% of the game.-
Regards.-
Well, there is an area where he has already had to lower AA, which is why he would prefer to have the PhysX card for those areas, the game runs very well with a single 780 at 1080p and 4x MSAA, but there is an area on a penguin's ship that drops quite a bit and you have to lower AA, a lot of physics, a lot of AI, lighting come together and you have to lower some AA, then it runs perfectly in the city.
These things are not seen in the reviews, this is seen when playing, for example Lost planets 2 also has a criminal area for performance, or the previous Batman vs Joker, but the latter surely wouldn't need the physics card if you removed those areas, even so this is the one that has put in the most realistic physics, not as decorative as the others.
Regards
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Well, there's an area where AA has already had to be lowered, that's why he'll prefer to have the PhysX one for those areas, the game runs very well with just one 780 at 1080p and 4x MSAA, but there's an area on a penguin boat that drops quite a bit and you have to lower AA, a lot of physics, a lot of AI, lighting, and you have to lower some AA, then it runs perfectly in the city.
These things aren't seen in the reviews, this is seen when playing, for example Lost planets 2 also has a criminal area for performance, or the previous Batman vs Joker, but the latter surely wouldn't need the physics one if you took out those areas, even so this is the one that has put in the most realistic physics, not as decorative as the others.
Regards
I haven't reached that part and I have everything on ultra, only that instead of 8xMSAA I have TXAA LOW, and the game is generally at 45-60 fps with some drops to 30 fps, but I'm not willing to put in the GTX 580 for physx, I doubt it would hold up to my monitor.
When I get to the boat I'll tell you.
Regards.
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I didn't get to that part and I have everything on ultra, only that instead of 8xMSAA I have TXAA LOW, and the game is usually at 45-60 fps with some drops to 30 fps, but I'm not motivated to put in the GTX 580 for physx, I doubt it will hold up my monitor.
When I get to the boat I'll tell you.
Regards.
Better than TXAA I think it is to put 2X MSAA for that area, it will keep your FPS much better even though I go to 1080p, then once you pass it or leave the boat you can put 4x MSAA and it goes well.
I have cards that I could put for physics in that game but since almost the whole game goes very well with the 780, in that area I use low MSAA, it turns out better for me than having another card plugged in.
Personally I don't like TXAA, I prefer MSAA which blurs less and performs better.
regards
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Hello everyone!
Finally I couldn't resist an offer on ebay and I already have another Titan on the way.
I'm seeing that they are already being discontinued due to the release of the new 780 Ti and they don't go below 875€.I would like to put a block on this Asus Titan, which block do you recommend?
With 2 radiators (1x360 and 1x240) is it enough to dissipate the PC of my signature no?
On the Titan I have this block:
EK-FC Titan
The whole assembly was thanks to the great work and dedication of Prosilentpc. I will buy the block there.
http://i.imgur.com/hMDanvF.jpgRegards
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Hello everyone!
I finally couldn't resist an offer on ebay and I've already ordered another Titan on the way.
I'm seeing that they are already being discontinued due to the release of the new 780 Ti and they don't go below €875.I would like to put a block on this Asus Titan, which block do you recommend?
With 2 radiators (1x360 and 1x240) is it enough to dissipate the PC of my signature no?
On the Titan I have this block:
EK-FC Titan
The whole assembly was thanks to the great work and dedication of Prosilentpc. I will buy the block there.
http://i.imgur.com/hMDanvF.jpgRegards
I don't understand much about RL... Jotole, praiumus or alcorcete can help you more..but if you're going to take them to tope.Se I feel like it's a bit...at the top, I mean raising voltages...now if you're going to have them in stock, I don't see a problem.
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The EK blocks are the ideal ones for overclocking the VRM.No blocks are not the coolest ones, but they are the ones that protect those dangerous areas the most...Regards.
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For now I don't want to touch bios because I don't want to have two bricks soon!
I will probably raise the voltages a bit with Evga Precion to leave them at over 1100/1150 Mhz on both.
The graphics without touching voltage is at 1087 Mhz.
From prosilentpc they indicate that with the two radiators it was not necessary more.
The micro is with OC at 4.4Ghz
Let's see what Jotole, praiumus or alcorcete or more companions who have a lot of experience with these issues of R.L. and O.C suggestGreetings
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I don't understand much about RL... Jotole, praiumus or alcorcete can help you more..but if you're going to take them to tope.Se I feel like it's a bit much...by top, I mean to increase voltages...now if you're going to have them in stock, I don't see a problem.
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EK blocks are the ideal for overclocking the VRM.No blocks are the coolest, but if the ones that protect those dangerous areas the most...Regards.
That's why I recommended them back in the day and there were people who said no, you don't just have to protect the core but also what's around it. Besides, EK is not very restrictive, it's true that it creates little turbulence (injection-ejection) in the core area but if you're going to put so many blocks in series the less restrictive they are the better. Until recently I had 4 titans with a D5 and a single Phobya Xtreme NOVA 1080 and the graphics passing bench and doing calculation work, rendering, etc., since I don't play much they have never exceeded 34 degrees. Currently I have 2 of these in series with 18 fans in a sandwich at 1500rpm but very low, with which I have very very little noise and very very cool temperatures. 1 circuit for graphics and another for cpu, and motherboard (double loop). The important thing is that you don't have much tube in the case and that you have some air current in it to not let the heat stay retained anywhere, especially if the reservoirs are inside, which I assume you will have. Try to put them in the front areas but avoid the ones that are noisy and low performance as they let in little liquid and can generate bubbles and that is synonymous with low performance.
Xenxo if you put the BIOS of the Hydrocooper from eVGA you will have those values without touching anything else and super safe BIOS since they are the official ones from eVGA when they put RL as standard and on top they put a crappy block, much worse than the EK ones. For only the core the heatkiller and the kryographics are beasts, that is, for my taste too restrictive to be all in series
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For the moment I don't want to touch the bios because I don't want to have two bricks soon!
I will probably raise the voltages a bit with Evga Precion to leave them at over 1100/1150 Mhz on both.
The graphics card without touching the voltage is at 1087 Mhz.
From prosilentpc they told me that with the two radiators it was not necessary.
The micro is with OC at 4.4Ghz
Let's see what Jotole, praiumus or alcorcete or more companions who have a lot of experience with these topics of R.L. and O.C suggestRegards
Hello, let's go step by step, everything depends on the level of OC, or the performance you want to get.
For the PC of your signature with the OC that you are mentioning and without touching the voltages on the Titan (with this I refer to bios moded) you will not have problems. Obviously they will not be some great temperatures, but better than air for sure.
To give you an idea, I have a 9x12 from Phobya with push/pull on the 3930 at 4,9 Ghz, the temperatures playing do not exceed 50º.
In the titans I have a triple for each one. And the bios modeadas, mine are always at 1,21/1200. And sometimes at 1,30/1300. The temperatures are very moderate in idle around 26º and in full do not exceed 40. The vrm also do not exceed 60º ever, and they are the ones that suffer the most with the over voltages.
If your intention is not to reach those limits with those radiators you are doing well. But if you think about unlocking the titans you will have problems, The titans unlocked are around 400W of consumption, not to mention more, and that has to be dissipated.
The assembly of the equipment is great, of course they have done wonders to put those radiators in the Silverstone…..!!
That's why I recommended them in their day and there were people who said no, you not only have to protect the core but also what is around it. Moreover, EK is not very restrictive, it is true that it generates little turbulence (injection-ejection) in the core area but if you are going to put so many blocks in series the less restrictive they are the better. Until recently I had 4 titans with a D5 and a single Phobya Xtreme NOVA 1080 and the graphics passing bench and doing calculation work, rendering, etc., since I don't play much they have never exceeded 34 degrees. Currently I have 2 of these in series with 18 fans in a sandwich of 1500rpm but very low, with which I have very very little noise and very very cool temperatures.1 circuit for graphics and another for cpu, and motherboard (double loop). The important thing is that you don't have much tube in the case and that you have some air current in it to not let the heat get trapped anywhere, especially if the tanks are inside, which I suppose you will have.
Well now you have two titans with those radiators, put on some scarves, they will cool down….......
. HahahaPrecisely talking with ELP3, when he wanted to put RL to the titans, I told him what you were saying, and what I had done about it.
The difference of the EK blocks with the rest is that they contemplate the R22, things that the rest do not. For a normal work of the titans, that is not a problem, although obviously if they are dissipated better. So as I liked the Koolance, and they are of the ones that keep the cores the coolest. What I did was add a thermal pad to the R22 inductors, so that they were also dissipated with the blocks as well as the vrm.
All this we did not know at that time about wild bios unlocks or what is being seen now.
The other day worried about the temp of the vrm with the titans at 1,30 I put a probe on the back of the block right where the vrm are, monitored with a rehobus. Passing a Fire Xtreme at 1300 the vrm did not exceed 50 degrees. From the back, so I imagine that in front and being dissipated with the block they are at those temperatures or less.
So the invention finally seems to work pretty well. ;).
A greeting
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Pufff Jotole, putting 3 triples in series plus the blocks seems excessive to me and I think you lose performance. It's a circuit that's too long and narrow, and if you have everything in the case, you accumulate heat. Temperatures have a limit to how low they can go, and just putting in a lot of radiators doesn't give you more performance. It's not the same as 3 triples in series as it is one that's equivalent to 3 triples. With one triple and good airflow with fans that can handle pressure, you have enough for 2 cards to spare. I'd like you to try removing a radiator so you can see that the temperature doesn't change at all or even dare I say it goes down. I hope you do the test. What diameter of interior pipe do you have? 1/2" or 3/4"?
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Thank you very much for your clarifications and suggestions.
What a great setup you have Jotele, that build is huge!
The tower turned out to be awesome for the crappy tower without space that has for the R.L.
The 360 radiator goes on the outside.When the other titan arrives I will try with the stock cooler, but my intention is to put a block to see what they have in the prosilentpc store.
Thinking about it, I could end up placing another 240mm radiator right at the bottom but I don't think it will be necessary. Looking at R.L. on forums there are sli /cf with 2 radiators
My intention is to improve the temperatures and remove the heat generated by an sli and that with the stock cooler it was already cool.Now I'm much more confused about what to do. xD
Regards
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Xenxo, in the end you decided to go for the pair, if the anxiety can be helped XD.
I think your colleagues have made everything very clear to you. In my opinion, if you already have one from EK, get the second from the same manufacturer, rather than buying another one that will be different from the one you have. Have you thought about putting that LED light on the metraquilate?? I don't know if you've seen it, but in my mod of the 670 I had it and it looks great.Regards.
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The overclocking can handle me and with this purchase I want to keep the team going until the end of 2015, playing to the fullest!
What about the LED, do you put it blue or green? It's true that looking at your mod in N3D it's over the top
I think putting another radiator is not very necessary, I'll see what parts you recommend on Prosilentpc to finish the R.L with Titan's sli.Best regards!
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Pufff Jotole putting 3 radiators plus the blocks in series seems excessive to me and I think you lose performance. It's a circuit that's too long and narrow and if you have everything in the case you accumulate heat. Temperatures have a limit to how low they can go and just because you put a lot of radiators doesn't mean you have more performance. It's not the same as 3 radiators in series as it is one radiator that's equivalent to 3 radiators. With one radiator and a good airflow with fans that can handle pressure you have enough for 2 cards with room to spare. I'd like you to try removing a radiator so you can see that the temperature doesn't change at all or even dare I say it goes down. I hope you do the test. What inside diameter of pipe do you have? 1/2" or 3/4"?
The inside diameter is 1/2, I have 19/13 fittings.
I don't have three radiators, I have 2, this is my circuit:
2 D5 pumps in dual top series, triple radiator, gpu block/gpu block, triple radiator, depo, pumps.
The pumps are on three, you can't hear anything and it puts out a good stream of water. Well compared to the loops I see around I don't think I lose performance. I see some pretty good temps.
Best regards
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Xenxo if you decide on EK I advise you to put blocks with the bridge in parallel not in series, so as not to restrict much, besides you will get the same temperatures in both graphics cards
The inner diameter is 1/2, I have fittings of 19/13.
I don't have three radiators, I have 2, this is my circuit:
2 D5 pumps in top double in series, triple radiator, gpu block/gpu block, triple radiator, depo, pumps.
The pumps are at three, you can't hear anything and it comes out a good jet of water. Well, comparing with the rls that I see around here I don't think I lose performance. I see some pretty good temps.
Best regards
Sorry Jotole I misunderstood you, I thought you had 3 triple radiators for graphics cards only. Personally I would have put a double loop parallel not series. By putting 2 pumps in series you gain pressure, not flow rate and I don't think you need to raise the liquid 3 floors high. I tell you Jotole, I wish you had mounted a parallel so that you could see that if it performs well the ventilation you have in the radiators you would have lowered the temperature more, not a huge amount, but something.
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Xenxo if you decide for EK I recommend putting blocks with the bridge in parallel not in series, so as not to restrict much, besides you will get the same temperatures in both graphics
I don't understand how to put it? Can you send me some images. Thank you very much, buddy
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Parallel
Series
I now have a triple mounting bridge and in the channels of the card, I have a plate that they sell at EK to cover the holes and prevent the liquid from escaping. This way, I have the cards in the R4E more separated and X16.
This is the plate:
I hope that it is allowed to put these links, note that I do not work there, I know Eddy but I do not work for him. If you were going to mount 4 Titans, I would have given you the bridge that I have stored somewhere, although perhaps in the future I will have 4 cards again, I do not know.
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The tinkering can handle me and with this purchase I want to keep the team going until the end of 2015, playing to the fullest!
What about the led, zul or green how do you put them? True that looking at your modding in N3D it's over the top
I see putting another radiator as not very necessary, let's see what parts you recommend in Prosilentpc to finish the R.L with Titan sliBest regards!
It's normal that you want to keep it going, I suppose that all of us who have Titan will stretch it in our hands as much as possible.
Let me explain. The led that you have seen in my Mod, are led strips and you can choose the color you want, for your case I would put the red one. You can find the led in nearby stores specialized in lighting or electronics. They usually sell it by meters, you should measure where you are going to place it and cut to size for its placement. You will need tin and a soldering iron to solder a piece of cable that would be powered at 12v.
There are several types of led strips, some illuminate from the front and there are others that I am looking at for my new Mod that the lighting comes out to the side not from the front. You would need the one that illuminates from the front and we would place it on the back of the block in the area of the metraquilate, in such a way that if you look at it from the front, when it is placed you will see the effect of the color with the metraquilate. I advise you to use glue to stick it, even though it comes with adhesive but it can come off with the temperatures.
If you are willing to do it just send me a private message and I will explain it to you step by step, ok.Best regards.
