EVGA GTX 580 at 100° with Far Cry 4, BF4…

[juajuajuajuanra]

Hello everyone,

First of all, I want to say that, although the other day I was talking about how I had tested CPU OC, this problem has been happening to me since the summer with the computer and graphics without OC but I took time to locate it because I don't play much.

At first I attributed it to the summer, but now I see that there is something strange. The first thing I tried was to clean the fan and heatsink of the graphics card as this video shows:

(NVIDIA-EVGA GTX 4-5-6-7 Series Video Card Overheating issue Fix). I thought it would be the panacea, but I didn't find so much crap either.

Then I started playing with the graphics card fan using EVGA PrecisionX 16, setting it to 100% before playing, automatically, in "aggressive" profile. But with the same results.

With GPUz I have checked that at 98º it starts to decrease revolutions, I didn't want to think that this is the problem, I suppose that there the graphics card, besides scaring me with the "DEFCON 5" sound that pops up, is thinking about cutting off:

GPU Core Clock [MHz], GPU Memory Clock [MHz], GPU Shader Clock [MHz], GPU Temperature [°C], Fan Speed (%) [%], Fan Speed (RPM) [RPM]

797.3, 1012.5, 1594.0, 90.0, 85, 3510

797.3, 1012.5, 1594.0, 92.0, 85, 3510

797.3, 1012.5, 1594.0, 93.0, 85, 3480

797.3, 1012.5, 1594.0, 94.0, 85, 2670

797.3, 1012.5, 1594.0, 96.0, 85, 2610

797.3, 1012.5, 1594.0, 97.0, 85, 2520

797.3, 1012.5, 1594.0, 97.0, 85, 2430

797.3, 1012.5, 1594.0, 97.0, 85, 2370

797.3, 1012.5, 1594.0, 97.0, 85, 2280

797.3, 1012.5, 1594.0, 98.0, 85, 1260

797.3, 1012.5, 1594.0, 98.0, 85, 780

797.3, 1012.5, 1594.0, 100.0, 85, 720

797.3, 1012.5, 1594.0, 103.0, 85, 0

I have the latest updated nvidia drivers, the ones from 11/18/2014. As I say, this has been happening to me since the summer, it's not necessary for the game to be graphically brutal, it has also happened to me with QUAKE LIVE, which is not a game with a similar graphic load to a FarCry4 or a BF4.

I have searched but I have not found similar cases, any recommendations?

As always, thanks for everything
Regards

[whoololon]

It may be that the heatsink has come loose.
If the card is under warranty, make use of it, if not, check the fixings and if necessary replace the thermal paste.

[juajuajuajuanra]

@whoololon:

It may be that the heatsink has come loose.
If the card is under warranty, make use of it, if not, check the fixings and if necessary replace the thermal paste.

OK, thanks!!! How can I remove the heatsink other than "pulling" it off roughly? It's my first time disassembling a graphics card, hehe

[Sylver]

It will have its screws, or clamp screws of those that remain engaged in the PCB. You must disassemble these and separate it carefully, depending on the state of the original thermal paste, it will be more or less stuck to the core.

Some pictures would help

Regards

[Vegeta SM]

They are usually fixed with some screws at the bottom. I don't know if your model is like that. In the graphics cards that I have disassembled and the one I have, the heatsink is held with 4 screws and I remove them and it comes out. At first it will seem like it is stuck but it is because of the paste that comes standard.

[juajuajuajuanra]

Thanks to everyone!!!

[whoololon]

The following video is part of a series for putting an RL block on it, but I think it's good for you to get an idea when you start working on it. ;D

[juajuajuajuanra]

@whoololon:

The following video is part of a series to put an RL block on it, but I think it's good for you to get an idea when you start working on it. ;D

Yes!!! this very morning I got up and started looking for videos.

ARTIC SILVER 5 is still the big recommended? I found a couple of syringes: one ARTIC SILVER 5 and another COOLER MASTER (red cap, I don't know what this one was for). They are from 2007, better to buy a new one, right? ;D

Thanks!!!

[Sylver]

Man, if they haven't been in the sun and the Artic is still fluid, use it, if the components in a decent climate and the well-closed tube don't degrade so easily.

Regards

[juajuajuajuanra]

@Sylver:

Man, if they haven't been in the sun and the Artic is still fluid, use it, if the components in decent weather and the tube well closed do not degrade as easily.

Regards

Thanks!!! Anyway, as I have to place an order I have ordered new thermal paste and the "clean" as well, I don't want to be left with doubts in case the problem is not fixed

[juajuajuajuanra]

Thank you very much again for everything. I have applied ArtickSilver5 and I have been 30min without the computer turning off. Maximum temperature 96º, but normally between 80º and 90º

And if I remember correctly, as the days went by, the thermal paste had more effect and it went down a few degrees, didn't it?

In the worst case, I take off the casing of the graphics card again and plug a SilverStone F122 at full speed to the heatsink to play and that way I hold out until January/February to see if the GTX 970 or 980 go down a little

[whoololon]

Of course, you won't be cold this winter with that graphics card next to you.
I don't think it's a good idea to disassemble the casing, as it's the one that directs the flow towards the heatsink: if you remove it, all you'll have is a fan spinning and a passive heatsink block.
If in winter you still reach those temperatures, relax details and don't take risks: I think it's better to play at minecraft resolution than to be biting your nails without a graphics card until you can replace it. ;D

[juajuajuajuanra]

@whoololon:

Of course, you won't be cold this winter with that graphics card next to you.
I don't think it's a good idea to disassemble the casing, since it's the one that directs the flow towards the heatsink: if you remove it, all you'll have is a fan spinning and a passive heatsink.
If you still reach those temperatures in the winter, relax and don't take risks: I think it's better to play at Minecraft resolution than to be biting your nails without a graphics card until you can replace it. ;D

Hello!!! Yes, I had also thought about the air channeling, that's why I wanted to try, but now that you've told me, I'm discarding it.

The thing is, my joy was short-lived. I'm just as I was, today I tried again and it's still reaching 100ºC, I don't know why it was spared yesterday.

And I'm a bit annoyed, because I'm starting to think that the fan stops working, whether I put it on automatic or control it myself, and that's why it ends up going up to 100ºC. Normally at 96ºC it shows me that the fan's rpms are 0. At that moment, the "alarm" of the graphics card sounds, I quickly press ALT+F4, the temperature drops, but the fan is STOPPED!!! I have to go with my finger, give it a push to make it spin and then it reactivates. I also don't know if it's that at those temperatures the fan doesn't work well.

CORRECTION!!! Even if I push it with my finger it stays "stupid" even if it goes down to 50ºC, I need to turn off the computer and then it works well again. Moreover, there have been times when if I reboot it doesn't fix the problem, I have to completely turn off the computer for the fan to come to its senses.

[Vegeta SM]

You have answered yourself, it is the fan that would normally stop at low temperatures but at high ones? You already have the problem, it is the fan. It should be working all the time, I don't know how it doesn't catch fire

[juajuajuajuanra]

Hello again,

I don't have a warranty and I think I could make the most of this graphics card's life by overclocking it until it can't take it anymore (after all, in the end I won't be able to resist the 970/980 ;)) so I've been thinking about changing the graphics card's heatsink. After reading some forums, I've seen the following options that are compatible with the GTX 580, although I'd like to hear some recommendations if any of you can tell me (there's no problem with space in the tower):

• Prolimatech MK-13
• Artic Accelero Twin Turbo II
• Artic Accelero Twin Turbo III
• Artic Accelero Xtreme III
• Artic Accelero Xtreme IV
• Thermalright Shaman
• Zalman VF3000F

Another problem is that I don't know where to buy some of them, my usual stores don't have them.

I appreciate any recommendations and if possible indicating where to buy them

Thanks a lot as always
Best regards

[whoololon]

The AC Extreme (3 and 4) look suspiciously like the Gigabyte Windforce 3X coolers, only if they come close to their performance they are worth it.

Edit: I'm not sure if the 4 comes with adhesive aluminum heatsinks for the VRMs (the 3 does), if not or you can't put them on, be careful with OC, because the memory won't be cooled. If you can get the Extreme 3, much better than the 4. In fact, you can send that backplate that comes with it and the blue thermalpad to the bin and get yourself some aluminum VRAM heatsinks for less than 0.5€ each.

[juajuajuajuanra]

@whoololon:

The AC Extreme (3 and 4) look suspiciously like the Gigabyte Windforce 3X coolers, only if they come close to their performance they are worth it.

Edit: I'm not sure if the 4 comes with adhesive aluminum heatsinks for the VRMs (the 3 does), if not or you can't put them, be careful with OC, because the memory won't be cooled. If you can get the Extreme 3, much better than the 4. In fact, you can send that backplate that comes with it and the blue thermalpad to the bin and get some aluminum VRAM coolers for less than 0.5€ each.

Well, that one can be bought directly on the website, ARCTIC | Accelero Xtreme III, priced at home 76.65 is it a good price or do you know any place where I can get it cheaper? Do I need to buy anything else or does it come with everything I need? (I have artic-clean and artic5 ;))

Thanks!!!
Best regards

[juajuajuajuanra]

@whoololon:

The AC Extreme (3 and 4) look suspiciously like the Gigabyte Windforce 3X coolers, only if they come close to their performance they are worth it.

Edit: I'm not sure if the 4 comes with adhesive aluminum heatsinks for the VRMs (the 3 does), if not or you can't put them, be careful with OC, because the memory won't be cooled. If you can get the Extreme 3, it's much better than the 4. In fact, you can send that backplate it comes with and the blue thermal pad to the bin and get yourself some aluminum VRAM heatsinks for less than 0.5€ each.

I've continued researching and according to the article from Review: Arctic Accelero Xtreme IV | El Chapuzas Informático - Part 4 states:

_"As we mentioned before, the Arctic Accelero Xtreme IV changes the small aluminum passive heatsinks of the previous model for a wide backplate. Between this and the hottest areas we must place the thermal pads we see in the previous image, located basically behind the memories and the VRM."

"Perhaps placing the thermal pads is one of the most laborious points of the assembly, as they are viscous and stick equally to the PCB as to the hands. We must take into account the position of the hottest components on the back or the thermal pads included in the original heatsink of our graphics card, as well as in some cases the memory chips placed on this side of the PCB."

What I found is that once placed on the motherboard, the part of the heatsink on top (the one without the fans) would touch the CPU cooler. I have two PCIe ports for SLI, can I use the bottom one without changing anything? (I'm going to investigate)

I tell you this because I found the Arctic Accelero Xtreme IV in my usual store for 61e delivered to my home.

Thanks again
Regards

[whoololon]

…latex gloves and a lot of patience.

Edit: Well, look at the next page of that review, the temperature table, and tell me if having the VRAM over 90º (it's an R9, that's for sure) requires so much hardware. For that, I'll skip mounting the backplate directly.:wall:
The 3 offers "dissipation" of the VRAM passively in a direct way, the 4 offers it equally passively, but wanting the memories to dissipate from behind. (¿?)

In any case, keep in mind that no compatible cooler (and almost none of the factory ones either) will dissipate your memories in an active-direct way (by direct contact with the main block), so they will always be the Achilles' heel for OC.
Do I mean that you can't do OC? No, you just can't do all that one would like. ;D

Edit: Don't worry too much, considering that if your graphics card's fan worked, you would use that cooler that comes with it until you wanted to buy a new one, and it doesn't dissipate the VRAM either.
Get the cooler you want, and keep in mind that (respectfully) your graphics card is a few years old and you're planning to buy a new one… aren't you?

[juajuajuajuanra]

@whoololon:

…latex gloves and a lot of patience.

Edit: Well, look at the next page of that review, the temperature table, and tell me if having the VRAM at over 90º (it is an R9, that's for sure) requires so much hardware. For that, I'll skip mounting the backplate directly.:wall:
The 3 offers "dissipation" of the VRAM passively in a direct way, the 4 offers it equally passively, but wanting the memories to dissipate from the back. (¿?)

In any case, keep in mind that no compatible cooler (and almost none of the factory ones) will dissipate the memories in an active-direct way (by direct contact with the main block), so they will always be the Achilles' heel for OC.
Do I mean that you can't do OC? No, you just can't do all that one would like. ;D

I'm not going to deceive you, it would be the first time I do OC to a graphics card and I won't be very demanding, in principle I am satisfied mainly with lowering the temperatures of the GPU and later I'll see about the OC.

Well, ordering the III….MUCHISISISSISISISSIMAS THANKS!!! I'll tell you the results