MTB bike selection

packosoft

Roughly speaking, the one that comes closest to these components:

Changes: Shimano XT or SRAM X9

Fork: Rock Shox Reba or RS SID (the modern 32mm thick, not the 28mm) or Fox Evolution Float32

Frame: For your build, forget carbon. Get a good 6061 T6 or 70XX aluminum frame (XX because it could be 7005, 7050…), if it has a lifetime warranty, better.

Brakes: Avid Elixir 5 and up (in case of Avid) and Shimano SLX and up (in case of SRAM). The best, Shimano XT with 180mm disc in front and 160mm in back.

Hollow cranks, SLX and up (Shimano) or Stylo/X9 (SRAM)

Wheels, a pair of Mavic Crossride or similar (around 1600-1800gr) if they weigh more than 2Kg for both wheels, better not...

The rest is up to your taste, but forget carbon if you weigh more than 90-100Kg.

Best regards.

PD: Greetings to all ;D
PD2: I started by trying and I've already spent more than 2450€ on the damn MTB :wall: (it's worse than computers... because in addition, the components suffer more wear)

and instead of changing so many components to lose weight, wouldn't it be cheaper for you to lose weight? :troll:
what you have on endomondo on the handlebar is a gps? then you transfer the route to the PC?
I bought a mount to carry my phone on the handlebar, so I can also see the speed and those things

Nemo

I'm not sure if the horns are very professional, but they work great for me to tackle some sections.
Yes, the Endomondo works as you say, from its website you can create routes and then follow them from the mobile, yours or the ones that others have made in your area.
I don't use automatic pedals, but I think it will be the next change I make, they are good because you not only take advantage of the push of the pedal down, but also the one of the leg that goes up... and that is noticeable uphill. That is, if the first two silly falls while standing still, for not having released the cleat, no one can take them away from you ;D.
I think that around these dates they present the models of the new 2013 season, and that promotes a price drop in the 2012 models, it is a good opportunity to buy at a good price, I bought my Conor a year ago around these dates and I saved almost 200€+equipment.

Best regards.

Alien8

By parts,

Clipping in to the bike is like ABS or airbags in cars… once you try it, AND YOU GET USED TO IT, you won't let go of it.

As mentioned before, you don't just push down, you also pull (almost unconsciously) up with the other leg, so you use leverage and therefore, much more force with less effort.

At first, being strapped in is scary (even though you can release with a slight twist of the heel), but once you get the hang of it, the security it gives you going down (the bike is perfectly connected to you) and the strength it gives you going up, is unmatched.

I prefer not to use the horns, as they can get caught on branches and stuff if you're going through very dense areas (on bike paths, it doesn't really matter, but I don't think they have many slopes...)

As for reducing weight, with my 162 lbs at 6 ft, it's already hard to lose more weight (at 38, I can see the "tablet"), so I reduce the weight on the bike by using my wallet (as much as I can, of course, it's a bottomless pit).

The most important parts of the bike are the fork, the brakes, and the gears.

If you're serious about MTB, even if it's just on weekends, forget about Suntour. The Rekon, if it's air-powered, is okay, even though it's a bit heavy.

I've seen a SCOTT in the ad you posted that must be a great bike, the one ABOVE the 899€, which has the SID and everything in Shimano XT. You won't regret it if you go for that one, and you wouldn't have to change much over time unless something breaks.

packosoft

@Alien8:

I've seen a SCOTT in the ad you posted that has to be a winner, the one ABOVE the 899€, which has the SID and everything in Shimano XT. You won't regret it if you go for that one and you wouldn't have to change much over time unless something breaks.

we've been ripped off, it's not in the photo because it was 2200 euros or something
Is the automatic pedal system standard? I mean, can you change shoes without any problems?

krampak

Yes, they are usually all the same and you can always change the cleat of the shoe if it's bad. This week I received my new bike, the other one I had, although it was good (and only the frame of the original components remained) was already 15 years old, it was before my brother... I got a Ditec Cam 1.0XC made of carbon (weight 68kg, animals!) with SID Team fork and full XT (wheels included) except for the derailleur which is XTR. I have only been able to test it for 1 day because I had a slip with the rear disc caliper and I already have it in the workshop XDDD

packosoft

and better the only bike shoes with which you walk like a wobbly duck or the ones that are now that look like street shoes and have the cleat integrated into the sole? I saw a pack of shimano with shoes and pedals for 90€ or so

packosoft

I think I'll stop by the Decathlon to see if they have any 8.1 on offer and if not I'll go for the Aspect 30, there's always time to change components, right?

krampak

There is everything. I personally go with the cycling shoe (the one with the dizzy duck XD) and small pedals for this type of shoe, but there are not only'street' shoes with cleat but also mixed pedals that are like the typical pedal (wider) but with a cleat inside, with these last ones if you catch them for going quietly through the city or whatever you can go with your normal shoes and if you want to do a serious outing you change your shoes and that's it. The most fans will always go with the small one for weight issues, but you can look at that option (at worst there is also an accessory to put the small ones and make them comfortable for the street shoe).
To get good technique with the automatics I recommend that you try to pedal round with one leg for a few minutes and then with the other, you will see how you gain efficiency in pedaling.

Tecnho

As I told you, I would take a look at the 2012 range of these COMMENCAL Bicycles, my colleague has a meta am1 and is delighted, but in normal ranges you have from 2012 from 400€ and for 600-800 you find something good for sure.

Fassou

@packosoft:

I think I'm going to stop by the decathlon to see if they have any 8.1 on sale and if not, I'll go for the aspect 30, as there's always time to change components, right?

If you buy the Scott Aspect 30 :nono: nothing at all, at least the Aspect 10 (in the previous post I put Scale by mistake).

The Rockrider 8.1, are a good option for beginners, as long as you get it for ~650€ taking advantage of when they change versions, which is what I did when I wanted to initiate "the rib" in MTB routes . That said, they will want to do the maintenance at a gold price ¬¬ and you will need a trusted workshop ( +1 for buying from a store with a workshop).

Regarding the cleats, they will be your best friends when you have to climb something, and after the initial scares, it will be really easy to release your feet when you need to, and in a short time you will develop the reflex to do it instinctively :sisi:. If you have a large or wide foot, better to get mixed pedals, that have cleat and platform, to increase the support of the foot.

And very important, the issue of posture on the bike :sisi:, especially when you put cleats and spend several hours on it, because the back and knees suffer a lot, and with bad postures come injuries and so on.

Salu2!

Alien8

The knees only suffer if you have poor development or bad posture.

I am more in favor of cadence than force on the pedals (and I assure you that I am one of those who usually wait at the top for others to arrive...).

I also wear "fine" MTB shoes and I have no problem with them. In fact, the clipless pedals I use are among the lightest (256gr per pair...) and although at some point I may not have the cleats embedded, they hold my foot quite well if I am not being a fool...

Ritchey Paradigm

The 8.1 is already a good machine and you will surely not regret the purchase, but if you find an 8.2 at a good price (they were "liquidating-giving away" for 499€ just a while ago!!!) you make the purchase of the century, since it has components MUCH superior to the 8.1

8.1 - 8.2
Avid Elixir 3 - Avid Elixir 5
Full SRAM X7 - Full SRAM X9
Rock Shox Recon Silver (2.2Kg) - Manitou RSeven Pro (1.5Kg)
Wellgo automatic - Xplod automatic
Standard stem - Alu2014 stem
The frame is made by Kinesis, which is a trusted brand (they also make frames for Giant...)
The rims are from Rígida in both cases, although those of the 8.2 have sealed hubs and straight spokes, that is, they are tough as nails.
(Everything else is practically the same, except for the saddle)

The reason is that the 8.2 disappears from the market to give way to the 8XC Replica, which already has a carbon frame.

packosoft

@Fassou:

If you buy the Scott Aspect 30 :nono: nothing at all, at least the Aspect 10 (in the previous post I put Scale by mistake).

The Rockrider 8.1, are a good option to start, as long as you get it for ~650€ taking advantage when they change the version, which is what I did when I wanted to initiate "the rib" in the MTB routes . That said, they will want to do the maintenance at a gold price ¬¬ and you will need a trusted workshop ( +1 to buy in a store with a workshop).

About the cleats, they will be your best friends when you have to climb something, and after the first scares, it will be really easy to release your feet when you need it, and in a short time you will develop the reflex to do it instinctively :sisi:. If you have a large or wide foot, better mixed pedals, that have cleat and platform, to increase the support of the foot.

And very important, the issue of posture on the bike :sisi:, especially when you put cleats and spend several hours on it, because the back and knees suffer a lot, and with bad postures come injuries and so on.

Salu2!

damn, but the aspect 10 costs 50% more than the aspect 30, does that price difference really pay off?

Fassou

The Aspect 10 is the minimum, and thinking more about saving than I would like.

If it has to be Scott, I would really think about the Scale 60 or 50, but start by telling us the use you are going to give it, and the terrain you think you will be riding on.

The prices, think of them as when you look at cars, that the official one is one, but if you work it out with the seller, and more so in certain times when they are liquidating stock, or are preparing the order for the versions of the following year, you can get very good discounts :sisi:

Salu2!

PD: Do not pay attention to Alien8, his power-to-weight ratio is another ;D

packosoft