Without OC, if summers are very hot, a Rajintek Themis EVO or an NH-D14.

@mitrasto:

Hello, that's exactly what I was referring to, that when it gets hot I'll have a PC oven, and what I want is to prevent exactly that, since currently the PC ventilation system is correct

In summer, to those 65ºC you just have to add the temperature differential between what you have now in your room and what you have in summer… let's say 20ºC in winter and 35ºC which is the maximum recommended by manufacturers... deltaT= 35-20= 15ºC

Therefore the temperature of your processor will be in summer of 65+15 = 80ºC which is still well below the TjMax.

I repeat and emphasize... these micros consume less than a lighter and barely heat up and the stock heatsink is more than enough... another thing is that we want a SILENT PC

After the bite in response that Espinetenbolas just let out :D, stick to the essentials.

Your rig is perfect for putting a good air cooler on, accompanied by a good-sized fan at low RPM, and having the precious silence :fumeta:

On the RLs, my advice is that the pre-built kits can be an acceptable solution when you have a serious temperature problem, in which case you usually opt for the dual fan versions, because they can be more economical and simpler if you don't have experience with RLs. The single fan ones are too expensive for the performance they have and the high RMA thing is true, although it's not as frequent anymore.

On the other hand, if you really want to get started in the world of RLs, the best thing is to buy an expandable pre-built kit (eg: Swiftech H220), although in recent times (with the popularity of pre-built kits), others are appearing that start from a kind of pre-built kit like the EK Predator 240 that you recommend.

Keep in mind that the higher quality in the components make the prices much higher than any pre-built kit or all-in-one (AIO), so yes, having an RL is expensive and you don't get it back (unless you win a prize in a contest) ;D, especially since the components that get the hottest (micro and graphics) use Turbo modes, making air cooling easier.

Salu2!

You can make the mod of the material you want... just make sure you have the tools and knowledge needed to work them correctly.

I also recommend that you buy cheap or second-hand PC cases from which to reuse parts such as the ATX bracket, the back and the 3.5 and 5.25 bays... in short, just make the chassis.

Another tip is to simplify... the simple is what works, it is cheaper and you are less likely to end up with a mess or leave the mod half-finished.

Also stay away from those models that use incandescent or vacuum tube backlighting, after a year of use you will see that it will gradually turn off due to the aging of the bulbs or vacuum tubes.

PD: if you can build a fanbus based on power transistors, the TIP41C for example supports a lot of current and has good thermal performance. It is possible that it could be combined with a touch TFT, RGB leds and relays with the idea of controlling the on/off of each fan, as well as controlling the general lighting

I have been looking for a while for a custom controller for the PC

Good job, recycling with these finishes is a pleasure

Enjoy it!

Best regards

hello, minimum these

Raijintek Themis EVO CPU Cooler

more advisable: Cryorig H5 Universal - Raijintek EreBoss CPU Cooler

regards

You can always twist your brain a bit and mount some kind of "secret" switch inside the box that prevents current from reaching the board, or directly remove the power supply cable

Saludos

Assuming you physically have space to adapt several microswitches, the problem is that the mouse plate allows you to add those extra connections and that they do not conflict with the others (that when you press one, two are activated at the same time).
As a curious project to entertain yourself, like making a picture in MS Paint, it's not bad.
I agree with Bm4n, there are mice with enough buttons for less than 10 €, the Tacens Mars Gamming, for example.

If you want quality, the best fans today are the EK vardar, you already value the rpm, normally the F3 are the most demanded given their balance in fpm/db/pressure/flow.

If you don't want to worry about it, Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition, or its version SP120HP, more flow pressure and more noise. You have more options like Noiseblocker B12-2 or its superior versions 3-4 O PL-SL.

Thermaltake has recently released other fans intended for radiators with quite good pressure for their 1500 rpm, I can't remember the name now...

It's up to you how much you want to spend and the balance between db/pressure/cost XD.

Best regards.

these are the specifications of your power supply, weak for overclocking and more graphics
the Radix series from Tacen is not bad, it's passable, but in your case it lacks power
your power supply is like a 450W/ 500W decent in efficiency and power although it says 650W it's a lie
and if the power supply does not provide enough power and stability the equipment heats up much more

well, apart from the filtered stability of voltages, performance under load, noise and other things, the 12Volt line is the power that consumes the most in the equipment for all components, and the graphics the most

my Corsair TX 650 V2 power supply has 52A on the 12V line and is manufactured by Seasonic, quality and more

if you do not want or can spend money the Nox Urano TX 850W - 67 euros will do you well, do not be scared that it says 850W if you want to do OC, and having a powerful graphics card is necessary and it is very efficient in consumption and silent,

Review Fuente de Alimentacion NOX Urano TX 850W - Razorman.net / Reviews Hardware
Review: Nox Urano VX750 y Nox Urano TX850 | Profesional Review

If you want a real power supply with a 10 in everything including the price I recommend :

Seasonic M12II Evo Edition 750W 80 Plus Bronze Modular - 110 euros approx
Seasonic S12G Series 750W 80 Plus Gold - 125 euros approx
Seasonic M12II Evo Edition 850W 80 Plus Bronze Modular - 125 euros approx

regards

If there is no budget problem I would recommend the h100i it is very good and cools super well. Regards

This model of heatsink is discontinued by the manufacturer itself, and in the link that Sylver provided you, you can read how Noctua itself recommends another more modern heatsink that replaces it in its range, specifically the NH-L12.

The translation of what the people at PCC are telling you is that this heatsink does not include the necessary backplate in the box to install it on LGA1366/LGA1156 platforms (and therefore on LGA1155 and LGA1150), and you would have to order it separately. So calculate the years that this model has

Salu2!

PD: I move the other post to the Conventional Cooling section, which is where it belongs.

Welcome back

I move your post to the Extreme Cooling section.

Best regards!

What a great-looking project, I'll stick around to see how you progress! Keep up the good work

Well, the first data with OCCT shows that the CPU reaches up to 73 degrees and the GPU up to 51, I'll see if I have time and do the test outside the box

@Espinetenbolas:

What I will recommend you to go cheap and economical is to make a box with one of the sides foldable (like the door of an outdoor electric meter) with hinges and with a lockable closure and that you put holes for air intake and exhaust to create a flow that cools those elements that require it (in fact with woods you can make a circuit where you want the air to pass)… if the budget allows you to put filters, put them but keep in mind that they have to be cleaned every so often so adopt a solution that allows you to assemble/disassemble quickly. My advice to maximize ventilation and take advantage of the natural convection process is that the air enters from below and exits from above... and if you put filters only at the entrance.

Regarding the grille that whoololon mentions, only if it really comes out well priced to cover the air intakes and exhausts, otherwise the fan grilles are very cheap… look for prices and budget.

The grilles that I recommend to you usually cost €1 or less (depending on the size):

+1 to everything.

And in fact, those small grilles are the ones I usually use in mods that include fans almost to the outside of the cases. Efficiency and economy go hand in hand, great option :sisi:

Regards

I like the smaller boxes, and I don't know how it will be with so much noise from the fans, but the truth is that it's a nice design, and you've put a lot of work into it, so congratulations.

Someday I would like to do something similar, but first I have to read and learn a lot, and above all, take time away from other hobbies ;D

Best regards.