Test of the Real Nvidia Gtx Titan, single-sli-tri Sli, 4 WAY SLI
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The profile is created, the other option would be to put the bios of 1.17v instead of the one of 1.21v to see if it doesn't go up so much in temperature.
But it gets too hot, even putting a fan directly on the pc at maximum speed it goes down to 77º and 79% the fan.
From there I would say that I need to do something and I've been looking into the tower for a while now and I don't know which one to decide on.
Regards.
A good tower is important, at least one that brings in air and takes out hot air, mine takes out a lot of heat from inside, although the filters get dirty quickly and it's uncomfortable to clean them.
What is also somewhat normal is that a card gets hot in the summer, more so if you use high resolutions, because even if you put vsync they will work at full capacity.
I'm more bothered that it's hot when I'm not playing, that it needs to turn up the fan while on the desktop, playing it seems more normal although luckily this 780 seems pretty cool, although of course I expect the temperature to go up more in the summer.
right now I have all the fans at minimum and on the desktop the profile of the graphics doesn't go above 25%, that's the minimum I have set, although I prefer the fans to speed up sooner when playing, but in Splinter cell it doesn't reach 60º that's if the fan is at 54%, in the summer it's possible that the temperature goes up 15º when playing, but I think that's normal.
regards
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A good tower is important, at least one that lets air in and lets hot air out, mine lets out a lot of heat from inside, although the filters get dirty quickly and it's uncomfortable to clean them.
What is also somewhat normal is for a card to get hot in the summer, more so if you use high resolutions, because even if you put vsync they will work at full capacity.
I'm more bothered that it's hot when I'm not playing, that it needs to turn the fan up while on the desktop, when playing I see it as more normal although luckily this 780 seems pretty cool, although of course I expect the temperature to rise more in the summer.
right now I have all the fans at a minimum and on the desktop the graphics profile doesn't go above 25%, that's the minimum I have set, although I prefer the fans to speed up sooner when playing, but in Splinter cell it doesn't reach 60ºC that's if the fan is at 54%, in the summer it's possible that the temperature will rise by 15ºC when playing, but I think that's normal.
regards
I was testing by overclocking the graphics to 1100 it gets to 87ºC and the fan 95%, then I did the reverse that it doesn't go above 880 and it reaches 83ºC and Fan 89% always at 25ºC ambient temperature.-
So to change the tower, I agree with the dust I want something that contains it because I live across from a match factory and they grind and burn wood and the pc is always with that annoying little dust :llorar:, I think the thermaltake level 10 GT is better at that than the cooler master haf xm.
Now summer is approaching and I will easily reach 30-33ºC so I suppose it will exceed 90ºC with the fan at 100% :ugly:.
I think I'll go for the Thermaltake, although I can't find any reviews of the Cooler Master with a side cooler.-
regards.-
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I was testing it by setting the OC to 1100 and the graphics card reached 87ºC and the fan to 95%, then I did the reverse that it didn't exceed 880 and it reached 83ºC and Fan 89% always at 25ºC ambient temperature.
So I'm changing the case, I agree with the dust I want something that contains it because I live in front of a match factory and they grind and burn wood and the PC is always with that annoying dust :llorar:, I think the thermaltake level 10 GT is better in that aspect than the cooler master haf xm.
Now summer is approaching and I will easily reach 30-33ºC so I guess it will exceed 90ºC with the fan at 100% :ugly:.
I think I'll go for the Thermaltake, although I can't find any reviews of the Cooler Master with side cooler.
Regards.
The filters remove dust but also ventilation, when they get dirty you can notice the temperature of the components quite a lot, especially in summer.
For me it's important that the filters are easy to clean, you shouldn't have to disassemble much to clean the filters, mine has that problem that I have to disassemble quite a lot and remove many screws to clean them.
That's why when I look at cases I look that you shouldn't have to do much to take out and clean the filters.
regards
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The filters remove dust but also ventilation, when they get dirty you can notice the temperature of the components quite a lot, especially in summer.
For me it is important that the filters are easy to clean, that you don't have to disassemble much to clean the filters, mine has that drawback that I have to disassemble quite a lot and remove many screws to clean them.
That's why when I look at cases I look to see that you don't have to do much to take out and clean the filters.
regards
If that's what I liked about the level 10 GT I will already count on the change as an improvement in the temperature of the Titan.
Regards.-
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Today the second Titan Asus arrived, I just plugged it into the x79 motherboard and it works wonderfully.
I check with gpu-z:
Asus's ASIC is 79.8%
Zotac's ASIC is 64.1%
I would like to put a bios of 1.21v and remove the famous boost because the Mhz go up and down.
I have configured these values in Evga Precision that I think are correct in both graphics but in games they show that the mhz go up and down
Power limit +106%
Gpu Clock + 125 Mhz
Mem Clock + 150 Mhz
What bios do I put? Those of you who have sli of titan with stock bios, there is no longer the famous micro stuttering and throttling. I suffered with sli of gtx 480 and what a mess.
In a few weeks I will buy these components from Prosilentpc to put them in R.L.:
1x EK-FC Titan SE Block
1x Ek_FC Titan Backplate
1x EK-FC Link BLANK Parallel CSQ
1x EK-FC Bridge TRIPLE Parallel CSQ Plexi
I think the order is correct. I mentioned putting another 240MM radiator in the bottom part of the case and they told me it was not necessary. What do you think?
Regards -
Today I received the second Asus Titan, I just plugged it into the x79 motherboard and it works wonderfully.
I checked with gpu-z:Asus's ASIC is 79.8%
Zotac's ASIC is 64.1%I would like to put a 1.21v bios on it and remove the famous boost because the Mhz go up and down.
I have configured these values in Evga Precision that I think are correct on both graphics cards but in games they show that the Mhz go up and downPower limit +106%
Gpu Clock + 125 Mhz
Mem Clock + 150 MhzWhich bios should I put? Those of you who have sli of titan with stock bios, there is no more famous micro stuttering and throttling. I suffered with sli of gtx 480 and what a mess.
In a few weeks I will buy these components from Prosilentpc to put them in R.L.:1x EK-FC Titan SE block
1x Ek_FC Titan backplate
1x EK-FC Link BLANK Parallel CSQ
1x EK-FC Bridge TRIPLE Parallel CSQ PlexiI think the order is correct. I mentioned putting another 240MM radiator in the bottom of the case and they said it was not necessary. What do you think?
Regards
I wouldn't complicate my life, the GK110 has a protection for flashing and it can be dangerous, it has the bios and an EEPROM, I have mine with its original bios.
Also, one of yours is good but the other is not, if the bad one maybe goes up more if you give it voltage but it's almost more advisable to put the good one from Master and the bad one from the second, put the OC with its bios because in the end the OC for gaming is not the same as for benchmark and if you can leave both at 1150 Mhz it should already be good, because in the end that Zotac will limit the OC even if you give it voltage.I honestly don't see it as very recommendable because it involves a risk and the Titans are very expensive graphics, the good one should facilitate the OC if you put it as master.
Regards
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Many thanks fjavi for your great and good advice.
But I would like to remove the boost and leave them at 1006Mhz
I will use the bios of skyn3t rev 2:-
Base core clock 928Mhz & 1006Mhz* Boost Disabled* Voltage unlocked 1.212v* Default power target 300W instead 350W with 200% slide unlocked to 600w "Yup The King Must have a good amount of it"* Mn fan speed adjustable to 20% Max 100%
I think it's worth it and I don't think anything will happen. It's a risk but I think I'll end up doing it.
When I disassemble I will change the order of graphics and for games raise them to 1100Mhz and that's it.
What about the R.L, better not to mount another radiator? What do you think?Regards
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Many thanks fjavi for your great and good advice.
But I would like to remove the boost and leave them at 1006Mhz
I will use the bios from skyn3t rev 2:-
Base core clock 928Mhz & 1006Mhz* Boost Disabled* Voltage unlocked 1.212v* Default power target 300W instead 350W with 200% slide unlocked to 600w "Yup The King Must have a good amount of it"* Mn fan speed adjustable to 20% Max 100%
I think it's worth it and I don't think anything will happen. It's a risk but I think I'll end up doing it.
When I disassemble I will change the order of graphics and for games raise them to 1100Mhz and that's it.
What about the R.L, better not to mount another radiator? What do you think?Regards
I have no idea about R.L, but this tutorial may be useful for you, it's in English, maybe you'll find some indications in Spanish, but this one is for the Titan, then you put the bios that you're most interested in, I think the one from Skyn3t is the most used and the one that works best.
http://forums.evga.com/tm.aspx?m=1891166
http://www.overclock.net/t/1363440/nvidia-geforce-gtx-titan-owners-clublet's see if some expert in R.L tells you about the radiator.
regards
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Finally, both cards are flashed with the skynet rev2 bios. I took the risk finally!
I have the stock bios saved just in case.These bios are at 1006Mhz by default and the boost is removed, I think that's what they are.
Besides, I'll raise them to 1100 Mhz at most if I can increase the voltage with the Evga Precision.I just checked in Grid 2 that the Zotac goes to 1.20v and the Asus goes to 1.16V I suppose it will be because of the ASIC. Is it normal?
In the Evga precision they have the default valuesSoon I will put the Asus with an EK block it reaches 70º with the stock cooler
The thing about the 3 radiator of 240mm I see it a bit exaggerated for graphics and I7 3930K at 4.4Ghz, let's see what you recommend here.
Jotele I think told me that it's a bit tight for this equipment, I'm in doubt about what to do.
Thanks to all for your valuable help, guys!Regards
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Finally, both graphics cards have been flashed with the skynet rev2 bios. I finally took the risk!
I have the stock bios saved just in case.These bios run at 1006Mhz by default and with boost removed, I think that's what they're meant for.
At most, I'll overclock them to 1100 Mhz if I can increase the voltage with the Evga Precision.I just checked in Grid 2 that the Zotac runs at 1.20v and the Asus runs at 1.16V, I suppose it's because of the ASIC. Is that normal?
The Evga Precision has the default valuesSoon I'll put the Asus with an EK block, it reaches 70º with the stock cooler
The 3 radiator of 240mm seems a bit exaggerated to me for graphics and I7 3930K at 4.4Ghz, I'll see what you recommend here.
Jotele I think told me that it's a bit tight for this equipment, I'm having doubts about what to do.
Thanks to all of you for your valuable help, guys!Regards
If it must be normal that the one with the worst ASIC needs more voltage, there's a big difference in ASICs, that should be marked for each chip, I don't think that's a bios thing, that's why each one probably has a different boost, for sure with the original bios the Asus would reach a higher frequency.
My 780 although it says boost 1006, it actually reaches 1124mhz, in games that require a significant load it sets itself to that frequency, it's like an automatic OC that sets the frequency according to what that GPU can handle.
Regards
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Raising it a bit to 1150 makes the graphics explode, reaching 87º and the fan at 95% and it restarts, if I leave it at 1006 with the same temperatures nothing happens to me.
Is it due to the temperatures, lack of power from the source?
What do you think, in winter it didn't happen to me, of course it was at 75º and 75 fan and I had no problems at 1215 or will it depend on the game in question.-
Greetings.-
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Boosting it a little to 1150 makes the graphics explode, reaching 87º and the fan at 95% and it restarts, if I leave it at 1006 with the same temperatures nothing happens.
Is it because of the temperatures, lack of power from the power supply?
What do you think, in winter it didn't happen, of course it was at 75º and 75 fan and I had no problems at 1215 or will it depend on the game in question.-
Regards.-
I don't think that power supply lacks power, which one is it, the 1 rail or the 4 rail? if one of those 4 rail ones could handle my 295, maybe it's that your graphics card doesn't go up much and if you also use high resolution it's normal that it gets hot and ends up exploding, look especially at the VRM to see what temperature it reaches, you will have to ventilate the tower better.
My 780 so far heats up very little, I have a fan profile, it's just a habit but even with the new Splinter cell I didn't see it go over 60º, not even with Crysis 3 although I don't play for long periods but it usually stays pretty cool always.
regards
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I don't think that the power supply lacks power, which one is it, the 1-rail or the 4-rail? If one of those 4-rail ones could handle my 295, maybe it's that your graphics card doesn't go up much and if you also use normal high resolution it gets hot and ends up frying, look especially at the VRM to see what temperature it reaches, you'll have to ventilate the tower better.
My 780 so far gets very little heat, I have a fan profile, it's just a habit but even with the new Splinter cell I didn't see it go over 60º, not even with Crysis 3 although I don't play for very long but it usually stays pretty cool always.
regards
I would think that for power supply power it wouldn't be the 4-rail either, it's probably already at the output the same as the tower, I agree with you about Batman when he applies physics with the gloves it automatically drops 8-12 fps reaching 30-40 fps, so I'll put the gtx 580 for physx.
regards.-
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I would think that due to source power it wouldn't be 4-lane either, it's already out the door, same as the tower, I agree with you about Batman when he applies physics with the gloves, it automatically drops to 8-12 fps and goes down to 30-40 fps, so I'll put the gtx 580 for physx.
Regards.
With the 580 you can use it at least for Batman, they always have demanding areas especially because of the physics, a dedicated one will help.
Although then the source will already be a bit tight, in any case for physics the 580 will consume less.
regards
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Xenxo sorry for not replying before but I've been away and tomorrow I'll be out again in the afternoon as I don't work in Spain and now we have a lot of work. With those radiators you have more than enough. I would advise you to flash the bios of the evga hydrocopper as it is a super secure bios and it goes up to 1150Mhz without touching anything, at least mine do. Flashing has its risks but it's very simple, I advise you not to go crazy with cd or usb bootable in MS-DOS and use the nvflash version of Windows, it shouldn't fail you
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With the 580 you can use it at least for Batman, they always have demanding areas especially for physics, a dedicated one will help.
Although then the power supply will already be a bit tight, anyway for physics the 580 will consume less.
regards
The power supply is from the old days and I couldn't put 2 graphics cards of 8+6, so I just returned from a store that opens on Sundays and updated
Mouse Razer Mamba (the Logitech died a few days ago and I was using a generic one)
Tower Thermaltake Level 10 GT
Power supply Thermaltake Smart M1200W plus bronze efficiency 82-88 (generally from what I read 85) I would have liked a platinum but this one is for dummies ;D who don't want to bother with cables.
And I bought a rarity for me that I saw in the store Thermaltake Cyclo Slot Fan (I'll try to see if it reduces the temperature to the graphics card before changing the tower) I knew about the Antec Vcool that it lowered 5ºC, so for 7 Euros I couldn't resist.
regards.
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The power supply is from the old and I couldn't put 2 graphics cards of 8+6, so I just returned from a store that opens on Sundays and updated
Mouse Razer Mamba (the Logitech died a few days ago and I was using a generic one)
Tower Thermaltake Level 10 GT
Power supply Thermaltake Smart M1200W plus bronze efficiency 82-88 (generally 85 according to what I read) I would have liked a platinum one but this one is for dummies ;D who don't want to deal with cables.
And I bought a rarity for me that I saw in the store Thermaltake Cyclo Slot Fan (I'll try to see if it reduces the temperature to the graphics card before changing the tower) I knew about the Antec Vcool that it lowered 5ºC, so for 7 Euros I couldn't resist.
Regards.
How fast you are… you won't have a power supply problem anymore, I remember having one of those heat extractors a few years ago with the G80s and it gave me very good results, I had a very bad case and just putting the 8800 it got to 80ºC without playing, I did that fix with the extractors and I managed to lower the temperature to 62ºC.
Curiously, even though that card is so hot it still works and that's with a pretty significant OC, but I haven't needed to put it in the oven or anything, it's going well although it's already very short, my sister has it, but they only play Angry Birds, they don't need more.
Well, my 780 has failed for the first time, the OC has failed, I was running Valley at 1293 and 450 memory and it was spitting out quite a few frames but suddenly the screen went black and continued but at the factory frequency, the first time I've seen a failure like this, normally the driver would fail but you can tell either it has low voltage or it exceeds 105% of the power target.
Regards
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Xenxo sorry I didn't reply before but I've been away and tomorrow I'll be out again in the afternoon since I don't work in Spain and now we have a lot of work. With those radiators you have more than enough. I would advise you to flash the bios of the evga hydrocooper since it's a super safe bios and it goes up to 1150Mhz without touching anything, at least mine do. Flashing has its risks but it's very simple, I advise you not to go crazy with cd or usb bootable in MS-DOS and use the nvflash version for Windows, it shouldn't fail you
A colleague from N3D sent me the bios of skynet v2 and it works in pm and goes 1008 MHz and it works for me in pm
Could you send me the bios you mentioned in private
I won't put another radiator
Thanks for your helpSent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
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Here it is, original evga hydrocooper:
