I've always wanted to have a spare power supply for backup or to check for possible faults in home computers or those of troublesome friends. Lately, I've been using some borrowed ones, but they've ended up being mounted in computers, and the one I was lent is pending to go to a PC to take advantage of an 5870.

The thing is, I don't trust these bastards one bit, and I don't know what solution they'll give me if they don't leave me high and dry, because I'm expecting the worst. I'm thinking about buying a new power supply and we'll see how the issue with FirePower turns out.

I'm considering these 4 models, with most of the votes going to the S12G. What do you think?

http://xtremmedia.com/Seasonic_S12II_520W_Bronze.html

http://xtremmedia.com/Seasonic_M12II_EVO_520W_80Plus_Bronze.html

http://xtremmedia.com/Fuente_550W_Super_Flower_Golden_Green_HX_80_Plus_Gold.html

http://xtremmedia.com/Seasonic_S12G_550W_80Plus_Gold.html

Editing: The S12G has already been paid for, in 5 days I have to return the borrowed one. I'll let you know if these FirePower people have played me.

Editing2: I told the lady in charge of RMAs that she should also pay for the return shipping, so they don't mess with me. She replied that they don't repair, they replace. That seems difficult to me, considering that I bought the power supply when it was already out of production, EOL for the friends. She says it will be a problem with my equipment when it has been working perfectly for more than 4 years and continues to work perfectly with both the new Seasonic and the cheap one they left me to get by. These Firepower people are a pain today :ffu:

If, with the actual manufacturers of each source this happens, there is a bit of trickery behind every company, they have subsidiaries, subcontractors, suppliers and things like that. Then it is in practice where it comes to light which is the best option in certain cases and with certain hardware.

Regarding the power supplies that are exorbitant, well, there is everything. Those who have the latest generation graphics (see the GTX Titan and newer ones above) necessarily need power supplies of a lot of watts, because these are truly gluttonous units. On the other hand, there are other users who, for the sake of "being safe", buy power supplies of very high power to move a normal dual-core with a modest graphics card, which is totally absurd and unnecessary.

Greetings

@Sylver:

Indeed, as amd125 rightly comments, it's not essential to have a top-brand power supply, but it is highly recommended to have a good quality power supply, with good efficiency and especially that detail that it can stop a hypothetical voltage surge, which as the fellow user comments, usually takes many components with it and then we are talking about a real catastrophe.

As for brands, you are already reading: Corsair, OCZ, Cooler Master, Silverstone… There are several ranges and price ranges, you can take a look. As a relevant fact, make sure that the 12V line (or lines) have a high amperage, since for example in that B-Move you put there are 19 amps in each 12V line (2 lines) which translates to less than 500W real in that line, which is the most used in a computer of these characteristics.

There you also have the example of fellow user GyGaByTe_28 who has just launched a Corsair RM650 and will probably not regret his purchase for quite some time , just as I don't regret buying a Corsair TX650 at the time.

Regards

Jejejejejejjejejeje for now I'm amazed at how stable the lines are, you can feel the 54A in the 12v rail. The one I had before from Club3D was at 32A in the 12v rail and that was an 850W one jejejejejeje

I've been looking at mice and most stores have very few options. In the end I got a Keep Out Mouse X9.

I hope the wheel will last me a couple of years at least.

[YOUTUBE-HD]qhM2xu6BzgQ[/YOUTUBE-HD]

SOLVED. I decided to remove the power supply and check it out, and I found that a rubber grommet (the ones that were under the power supply to reduce noise and vibrations) was jamming the power supply fan. This caused it to overheat and shut down.

Thanks to everyone!

I have a homemade rack, I made it myself, with standard measurements!
I already have a "racked" PC, with some brackets, with a NAS "openmediaVault", it was to make it look more "professional"… thank you very much for your help!!!

I take this opportunity to refresh, in a very generic way, the topic of configuring the swap file, alias virtual memory, in Windows.
It will always be better to have two "physical" hard drives than just one. Regardless of where we install the operating system, its partition should be exclusively dedicated to elements of its environment, that is, the OS itself, driver files, and the most essential applications.
To establish virtual memory, if we don't want to complicate things too much, we will set the same minimum and maximum size, and said size will be the one recommended by the OS. The trick is to host it in a partition (only one, not distributing it in several) of a different drive from the one that carries more workload, avoiding that it has to be reading and writing at the same time.
This was quite important in mechanical drives, today, the transfer rate of SSD drives allows the OS and the swap file to be on the same hard drive.
Beware, it's better to have games on a separate drive.

Being 27" I would look for a 2k and not 1080 or you will see the pixels a lot...

Sent from my iPad with Tapatalk

I think you have done well, in fact I think that with less capacity you would be overdoing it, but it is a whim as you have rightly said. Enjoy it.

I love this type of posts. Thank you very much for the contribution. The Nokia that opened and left a keyboard always fascinated me, but it was too expensive for my pockets

For greater peace of mind, look at the amperage of the +12V line, multiplying amperage by 12V will give you the total power delivered on that line.

Regards

thank you all so much for participating! and helping me make these decisions. for now it will take a few weeks to do it, but I will be back and comment; D

thank you.

@Yanaloa:

Holaa!

Necesito ayuda para reparar los datos de mi disco duro externo y no encuentro un tema concreto por aquí así q os lo expongo en un nuevo.

he utilizado el programa Recuva para recuperar los datos y, aunque ha tardado lo suyo, me ponía que había recuperado una parte importante de los archivos. Pero todos ellos desordenados, sin ninguna carpeta, y muchos de ellos no se pueden abrir. Me preguntaba si sería bueno pasar otro escaneo con otro programa para no tener que darme la paliza de clasificar de nuevo los 46533 archivos uno a uno (y ya de paso si me recupera los que no me ha recuperado este) o no merece la pena…

Graciaaas

Hola, con el Recuva tambien se puede recuperar en forma de arbol con lo que te recupera los datos en carpetas tal y como estaban originariamente en el disco duro.

Te explico los pasos a seguir…

1 Has de cambiar al "modo avanzado" arriba a la derecha.
2 En opciones, elige Pestaña General/Modo de visualizacion/Vista en arbol.
3 En la Pestaña Acciones, selecciona todo y acepta.
4 Vuelve a escanear el HDD

Ahora te saldra en estructura de arbol, con carpetas ocultas y recicladas en la papelera.
Tardara mucho, dependiendo de los Gigas del HDD pero podras recuperar la mayoria de los datos y ademas podras recuperarlo por carpetas.

El Ontrack Easy Recovery no lo conozco, asi que puede ser que sea mejor que el recuva.
Suerte con la recuperacion de datos!

Well, I assumed from the beginning that they were the same! :risitas: :risitas: :risitas:

@whoololon:

Let's see, I don't think it's that complicated:

Corsair H100i:

• Radiator dimensions: 120 x 275 x 27 mm
• Fan dimensions: 120 x 120 x 25 mm (x2)

Now just look in the description of the case, box, or whatever we want to call it, if it has space for radiators and the dimensions it offers.
Example:
Air Top cooling system: 120/140mm fan x 2, or 200 mm fan x 1, which is what the one I have now offers.

Edit: I was thinking, what else does the Corsair H100i bring that the Noctua NH-D14 doesn't have?

Not all cases with the prepared hole.. work, because when the hoses come out the sides.. that's why the question..

It's proven that the Noctua is a very good heatsink.. and as you say, nothing to envy the H100i, but my choice for the liquid is because it doesn't take up as much space on top of the cpu and inside the case, more space.. better ventilation, I won't have problems with the RAM heatsinks.. I think with more load.. the RL is more efficient, it's the logical step in the evolution of cooling..

But as you say.. in terms of temperatures.. nothing to envy, but I'll stick with the RL.

@filipi90:

sorry for the delay in responding but here I attach the photos

I hope they help you if you have any questions tell me I'll try to solve it

Thank you very much!!!